The island of Kaua’i is Hawaii at its most elemental, the oldest of the main islands, here sea cliffs have been carved over millions of years into shapes that seem almost impossible, valleys are so remote they are accessible only on foot, and a green so deep and saturated it feels almost hallucinatory on a clear day. There are no buildings taller than a palm tree here; development is deliberately limited, think barefoot mornings on empty beaches, cocktails at sunset on a private lanai with nothing but the Pacific in front of you, and the feeling that you have found somewhere the rest of the world hasn’t quite caught up with yet. This is a place that demands you slow down, and we just loved it. The Luxury Editor is just back from a visit, and here is our guide to getting the most out of Hawaii’s Garden Isle.
Areas of Kauaʻi
Kaua’i divides into four regions, each with its own character. The South Shore, centred on Poipu, is the island’s sunniest stretch of coastline, home to its great beaches for snorkelling, swimming, and surfing, and the majority of its luxury resort hotels are located here. The West Side, is home to the small town of Waimea, its drier and wilder, with Waimea Canyon, the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacific’, dominating the interior. The East Side, known locally as the Coconut Coast, is the island’s most populated area, home to Līhu’e Airport and the Wailua River valley. And the North Shore, which is reached via a winding coastal road through Princeville to Hanalei, offers pleated green mountains dropping directly to a crescent bay of near-perfect sand.
Must-Do Experiences
I spent two days on Kaua’i and packed in as much as the island would allow, from the dramatic sea cliffs of the Nā Pali Coast to the Waimea Canyon, a boat journey up the only navigable river in Hawaii, and an evening in one of the most extraordinary dining settings I have encountered anywhere before. Read on to discover more about the experiences I highly recommend.
NaPali Coast boat trip with Kauai Sea Tours
There is no better introduction to the dramatic natural beauty of Kaua’i than the Nā Pali Coast seen from the water. Many a blockbuster film has been made here, from King Kong to Jurassic Park and the best way to see the coast is with Kaua’i Sea Tours, the oldest family-owned boat tour company on the island, with three generations and nearly 40 years of experience. Their newest vessel, the Lady Kailani, a 65-foot luxury catamaran which glides you along the coast over a five-hour experience.
You get a chance to go snorkelling, see dolphins up close, jumping fish follow the catamaran, and you might see the odd whale if you are very lucky, and on calm days, the crew will take the boat into the caves and beneath the falls. Breakfast and lunch are served on board and are plentiful, and rather delicious adult beverages are provided throughout too. There is nothing quite like it in Hawaii. I would highly recommend it, and the experience can be booked here.
Waimea Canyon State Park
Mark Twain once called it the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and standing at the rim, it is not difficult to see why. Waimea Canyon stretches ten miles long, one mile wide and reaches depths of 3,600 feet, a vast, colour-saturated gorge of rust reds, deep greens and terracotta that feels entirely incongruous with the tropical island around it. The scenic rim drive takes you through a series of increasingly dramatic viewpoints. Pu’u Hinahina and the Kalalau Valley Lookout are the unmissable stops, the latter offering a view of the Nā Pali Coast from above that rivals anything seen from the water. I would recommend a full afternoon to appreciate the national park in its entirety.
Before or after the canyon drive, the small town of Waimea itself is well worth a wander. One of Kaua’i’s oldest settlements and the spot where Captain Cook first made landfall on the island in 1778, it has a quiet, unhurried character that feels genuinely unchanged. As I am something of an Art Deco enthusiast, the architecture here was an unexpected highlight. The main street is peppered with a collection of buildings from the period, including the old Waimea Theatre and the Masaki Market. Alongside the architecture, the town has a good selection of independent gift shops, local fruit stands and small eateries.
Wailua River and Fern Grotto boat tour with Smith’s Kauai
The Wailua River is the only navigable river in Hawaii, and the boat journey up it with Smith’s Kaua’i is one of the island’s most entertaining experiences. The river winds through dense tropical vegetation to the Fern Grotto, a natural lava rock amphitheatre draped in cascading ferns. The Smith’s family has been running the tours for decades, and the combination of local storytelling, live Hawaiian music on the boat and at the grotto and the sheer natural beauty of the journey makes it well worth the time. Book at smithskauai.com.
Hanapepe
On the west side of the island, the small town of Hanapepe is known as Kaua’i’s Biggest Little Town, and it is said to be the place that inspired the setting of Disney’s Lilo & Stitch. Beyond its Disney credentials, Hanapepe is a town of wooden storefronts, independent art galleries, excellent coffee and a creative community that has been quietly thriving here for years. Stop into Pilina Coffee for one of the best Americanos on the island, and walk just around the corner to Longies and treat yourself to a shave ice, the local variation on this Hawaiian staple, layered with island-made syrups.
Every Friday evening from 6 pm to 9 pm since 1997, Hanapēpē comes alive for Art Night. Galleries open late, artists set up along the main street, and the whole town takes on a festive atmosphere that is entirely unique to this corner of the island. If your visit coincides with a Friday, do not miss it!
Turtles at Poʻipū Beach
If you are staying on the south shore, make your way to Po’ipū Beach, where you can see Hawaiian green sea turtles, ‘honu’. Each afternoon, they haul themselves onto the beach, unfazed by humans around them, as they rest up. The turtles are protected under federal law, and the cultural significance of the honu in Hawaiian tradition is profound, so don’t approach them and just appreciate them from a distance.
The Shops at Kukui‘ula
Make time for a stop at The Shops at Kukui’ula in Poipu. It is an open-air village of independent boutiques, galleries and restaurants, there is also a regular farmers market which is one of the best on the island for locally grown produce, fresh flowers and handmade goods.
Things We Didn’t Have Time For But Would Consider Next Time
Two days on Kaua’i is never going to be enough, and there were several experiences we had to reluctantly leave for a return visit. The Kalalau Trail on the Nā Pali Coast is widely regarded as one of the finest hikes in the United States with eleven miles of breathtaking coastal trail that requires a permit and a reasonable level of fitness, but rewarding those who make the effort with views that are simply incomparable. For a gentler introduction to the island’s hiking, the Sleeping Giant Trail above Kapaa on the east side offers panoramic views across the island with considerably less effort.
A helicopter flight over the Nā Pali Coast and Waimea Canyon is an experience many consider unmissable. Blue Hawaiian Helicopters and Sunshine Helicopters both operate excellent tours from Līhu’e Airport.
The North Shore deserves far more time than a day trip allows. Hanalei Bay is consistently ranked among the most beautiful bays in the world. From there, the drive along the coast to Ke’e Beach, the end of the road and the start of the Kalalau Trail, is one of the most scenic on the island.
For those interested in Kaua’i’s agricultural heritage, a visit to one of the island’s working farms is worth doing too. Lydgate Farms offers guided tours of their organic cacao plantation near Kapa’a, with a chocolate tasting that puts the island’s extraordinary growing conditions into delicious context.
And finally, for a truly unique perspective on the island’s interior, a kayak trip up the Wailua River beyond where the Smiths’ boats go, paddling to the Secret Falls through jungle-lined banks with no other company is worth doing too.
Where To Stay
The Ko’a Kea Resort on Poipu Beach offers a boutique experience entirely in keeping with the island’s quieter character. Sitting on Poipu Beach, one of the island’s sunniest stretches of coast, this intimate 121 room trades scale for atmosphere with a lagoon-style pool, a tiki bar, daily oceanfront yoga at sunrise and the sound of the Pacific from every room. Read our review of the Ko’a Kea Resort on Poipu Beach.
For those who want a larger resort experience, the 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay pairs world-class wellness with some of the most cinematic views in all of Hawaii. The Bamford Wellness Spa, farm-to-table dining and a stunning infinity pool looking out over the curve of Hanalei Bay makes it the natural choice for those who want sustainability and luxury in equal measure.
Also on the sunny south shore, the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa offers the island’s most complete large-scale resort experience with 50 oceanfront acres of lush gardens, lagoon-style pools, a lazy river, six restaurants, including the celebrated Tidepools, and the award-winning Anara Spa with open-air treatment rooms rooted in traditional Hawaiian healing.
View all our favourite hotels in Kauai
Dining Experiences in Kauaʻi
Red Salt – Private Cababa
During our stay, we experienced Red Salt’s private oceanfront cabanas dining experience, positioned just steps from the shoreline. This exclusive experience is available for two to sixteen guests.
The outlook from the canana can only be described as cinematic as you watch the sun dipping behind palms and the sky turning molten gold. We began with a trio of amuse bouche, chilled soba noodles, ahi sashimi, and pickled seaweed. We then shared a warm round of herbed focaccia, served with a creamy whipped house-made ricotta laced with truffle oil, local honeycomb and bee pollen.
This was followed by delicate slices of hamachi sashimi topped with jalapeño, tobiko and citrus ponzu. To round off the starters, seared Hokkaido scallops arrived perfectly caramelised, set over a sweetcorn and Portuguese sausage ragu, cherry tomatoes and a silky champagne beurre blanc.
Mains included Surf & Turf; Canadian lobster tail alongside a tender Australian Wagyu strip, accompanied by broccolini and poivre sauce. Another highlight was the Seared Ahi Steak, which I had coated in sesame and served rare atop a creamy asparagus risotto.
With a dedicated server orchestrating each course, and the sound of the Pacific surf just metres away, this was an experience that captures the romance and tranquillity of Kauai at night. I ended the evening with a classic margarita, thinking to myself, this has to be one of the most memorable dinners I have ever experienced.
Join Chef Cary Roy and a select few diners on an exclusive al fresco Pa’ina Series tasting journey, or enjoy the intimacy and privacy of one of Red Salt’s crystal chandelier-lit Cabana Dinners. The restaurant is named after the indigenous ingredient that’s harvested from volcanic red clay seawater ponds, to which it pays homage in its diverse menus. Roy is known for his prowess with steaks, so naturally, these are a menu feature, along with freshly caught seafood (think blue crab-crusted monchong and lobster gnocchi). A bespoke cocktail menu has south-Pacific flair, plus there’s a delightfully interactive tableside martini service, and a sushi bar for those who prefer to watch as well as feast. Red Salt offers a nightly dinner service and a daily breakfast.
Tidepools
Tidepools welcomes its clientele to thatched-roofed buildings floating above a koi-filled lagoon at the base of a waterfall. Open from late afternoon to 9 pm, the Instagrammable restaurant is part of Kauai’s Hyatt Resort. Steak and fish reign the menu, alongside vegetarian Thai and Japanese-style dishes, with desserts such as malasadas (a Portuguese doughnut widely adopted by Hawaiians) with a range of luscious dipping sauces. Those preferring drinks and a light bite can order small plates such as dynamite crab cakes, scallops, and roasted beets with candied lemons, alongside cocktails like Lava Flow and Pineapple Julep.
Table At Poipu
Set within the Shops at Kukui’ula, Table at Poipu is one of the south shore’s most enjoyable dining options. The menu roams across European, Asian and American influences while keeping a firm focus on ingredients sourced from nearby farms and local fishers.
Eating House 1849 Koloa
Paying homage to the island’s plantation heritage, but with a modern edge, this restaurant is located in the Shops at Kukui‘ula and is headed by Chef Roy Yamaguchi. You might want to order a multi-course feast with the likes of baby back rib, kale salad and butterfish, a ‘build your own local catch’ dish, or share some small plates including caviar, pork and crab pillows, and tempura peppers. Alternatively, book a weekend brunch with house ramen, tartines, brown butter banana waffles and more. Pair your meal with a colourful cocktail. Or take advantage of ‘Wine Down Wednesdays”.
Japanese Grandma’s Cafe
Located in Hanapēpē Town, Japanese Grandma’s Cafe is named after the owner’s mother and inspired by her chef father’s recipes and it’s a great option if you’re coming to the town for Art Night. Dine izakaya style on sushi nd frewsh seafood in the covered garden courtyard.
Merriman’s Kauai
If you’re dreaming of the classic, high-end “Hawaii sunset dinner”, book a table here on the upstairs lanai for views of the mountains and ocean. The restaurant, one of several Merriman’s operated across Hawaii’s archipelago, is set on a former plantation. Its owner, Peter Merriman, is often described as the original “locavore”, having championed local produce for over three decades. As such, it has a strict farm-to-table approach. At least 90% of the ingredients are locally grown or caught, so be sure to try it if you’re after an authentic taste of the island’s terroir. Merriman’s Kauai is an elegant affair, with regular live music sessions adding to the ambience.
Hualani’s
Like Merriman’s, Hualani’s provides a direct outlook over the ocean. The restaurant, which also overlooks the golf course, is on the lower level of the Timbers Resort and is headed by Executive Chef Alex Amorin. He and his kitchen are supplied with hyper-seasonal ingredients thanks to its 16.5-acre on-site organic farm. Hualani’s focuses on sustainability, and it’s an official Surfrider Ocean Friendly Restaurant. So if you’re eco-conscious, keen on clean eating, and love a beautiful view, Hualani’s is for you.
Useful Info
Want to learn more about all the Hawaiian islands? Read our guide here.
Getting There: Most visitors arrive at Līhu’e Airport (LIH) on Kaua’i’s east coast, which receives direct flights from the US mainland as well as easy inter-island connections from Honolulu on O’ahu, around 30 minutes away by air. From the airport, the south shore resort area of Poipu is around 30 minutes by car, while the north shore and Hanalei is around 45 minutes.
Getting Around: A hire car is essential on Kaua’i, the island rewards those who explore freely, and public transport options are limited. Book well in advance as rental cars are in high demand, particularly in peak season. Most major rental companies are represented at Līhu’e Airport.
Distances from Līhu’e Airport: Poipu 30 min, Waimea 45 min, Princeville 45 min, Hanalei 50 min, Waimea Canyon 60 min.
When to Go: Kaua’i is a year-round destination with average temperatures between 70 and 80°F. The south shore enjoys the most reliable sunshine year-round, while the north shore is lusher and wetter, particularly from November through March. Summer brings calmer seas ideal for the Nā Pali Coast boat tours, which can be limited by swell conditions in winter.
What to Pack: Light summer clothing throughout, with a layer for evenings and something warm if you are heading up to Waimea Canyon, where temperatures drop noticeably with the elevation.
Time Zone: Hawaii Standard Time (GMT-10), five hours behind New York and two hours behind Los Angeles. Hawaii does not observe Daylight Saving Time.
Passports: International visitors will need a valid passport and the relevant US visa or ESTA.
