Sushita Chinitas, Málaga – Review

Grupo Sushita’s much-anticipated first restaurant outside Madrid has opened in the heart of Málaga, bringing its playful Japanese fusion cooking to one of the city’s most storied buildings. Sushita Chinitas restaurant, just off the city’s emblematic Calle Larios, is a series of gorgeous spaces with real personality, distributed over the three floors of the Chinitas building. The menu is fun, fresh, and the dishes unapologetically decorative.

Sushita has been a fixture of Madrid’s dining scene since 1999, founded by Natacha Apolinario, Sandra and José Manuel Segimón. The brand has built a loyal following among the city’s smart set. The founding team and their R&D chefs have travelled extensively through Hong Kong, Canton, Singapore, Shanghai, London, and Paris to develop a fusion concept that goes well beyond sushi, drawing on techniques and flavours from across Asia and Europe.

Chinitas, Beautifully Reimagined

For their ninth opening and first outside the capital, Sushita chose Málaga, and specifically the building that housed El Chinitas, one of the city’s most emblematic addresses, historically linked to flamenco and the local artistic scene. The space has been beautifully reimagined. On the ground floor, a long bar runs along one side, leading to the partly open kitchen. Tables are set by the windows, in the middle of the room and in intimate alcoves. The decoration is inspired by Parladé, heavy on blues, with pieces sourced from antique dealers in Málaga, Seville and the south of France, including 17th-century Sevillian ceramic plates. The walls are painted with hand-executed murals by Johina García Concheso. Original features have been kept, including the wooden shutters, the entrance lanterns, the wrought-iron staircase railing with its worn marble steps and smooth wooden handrail.

Eugenia&Sushita tableware

The group’s collaboration with Eugenia Martínez de Irujo, the Duchess of Montoro and daughter of the late Duchess of Alba, on the Eugenia&Sushita tableware collection reflects the playful yet timeless elegance of the restaurant group, a hint at why it’s such a hit. The restaurants attract a well-connected crowd for the elegant, joyful dining experiences.

On the ground floor a table is dressed with dishes, trays and pieces from the Eugenia&Sushita collection, designed exclusively for this Málaga opening and the first place in Andalucía to offer the Eugenia&Sushita tableware. It is a lovely touch that immerses guests in the aesthetic from the moment they walk in.

We dined on the first floor, a salon with a small bar, a long table for the group and a series of charming alcoves. The walls are lined with books and ceramics, with wall lights made from sea shells. The third floor appeared set up for private events.

Tasting Menu

The cocktail list sets the tone, with author creations that fuse classic cocktail-making with an oriental twist. The Ginger Paloma with Patrón tequila and ginger syrup and the Mango Picante Colada with coconut, pineapple and a Tabasco kick are typical of the approach.

The tasting menu moved through a generous number of courses, and the kitchen’s approach was clear from the start. This is not the restrained precision of traditional Japanese sushi. This is colourful, playful, visually generous food, decorated with edible flowers, fish eggs and sauces. There is a lot going on, and it works. The flavours and textures are a delight. The kitchen works with sustainable Norwegian salmon, local Málaga producers and proximity ingredients, keeping the quality high and the sourcing considered.

The gilda de atún rojo, a riff on the Basque pintxo with red tuna and pickles, began the lunch, as we mingled with other guests. The carabinero croquetas with kimchi were a standout, the kind of dish that shows the range of the menu, fusing Spanish bar culture with Asian heat.

Once at the table, the gyozas de churrasco arrived. They were barbecue-glazed with a crisp shell and deeply flavoured. The tempura of red prawns with sweet chilli was tasty.

The sushi arrived on large boards, ready for sharing. The salmon nigiri with foie and truffle, the toro tuna gunkan and the spicy tuna maki roll were all generous and prettily presented, with that same emphasis on visual impact and Western-friendly flavour combinations.

We ended with coffee accompanied by a tiny bite-sized tarta árabe.

Final Thought

It is a fun, sociable restaurant in a beautiful building, with food that does not take itself too seriously but takes quality very seriously indeed. For Málaga, it is a welcome addition.

This was a hosted lunch for media.