Located at 80 Piccadilly, the Greek-themed Fenix scratches Mayfair’s edge but if you read its website, goes all in for London’s swankiest few square miles’ ethos and then some. ‘We celebrate heritage and mythology, taking inspiration from timeless architecture and art…A luxury lifestyle concept built around the pillars of rebirth and renewal… ” More than street-fighting talk, Fenix throws down a 24 carat gold gauntlet for any diner to pick up. On a Tuesday night in mid-May around 7pm, not a single diner is interested in this gauntlet; house music pumps, chit-chat buzzes and there’s barely a free seat in the place.
The cocktail list continues Fenix’s decorative if not hifalutin prose. Each drink is inspired by Greek mythology and defined under Earth, Air, Water, Fire and Aether. ‘Just like the pantheons, these glasses are filled with heroes, heroines, gods and goddesses.’ There’s a Heracles Old Fashioned or an Agean Smash, there’s Apollo’s Lemonade or Athena Fizz. There’s the scary sounding Medusa’s Curse (a Tanquray and sherry fruit mix), which must surely be quickly followed and counterbalanced by Medusa’s Blessing (a similar but non-alcoholic mix).
It’s a fascinating and time-consuming read and whilst my friend goes for a Greek rosé, I opt for the eponymous Fenix Nest Sour. It’s not quite as ceremonial as a champagne with sparklers but comes with some pageant as our waiter sets light to the gauze around the earthenware cup. I worry the concoction’s about to take off or crash and burn but it remains dormant and glows like embers in a late night camp fire. The decent sized sour is fruity with quite a kick. A less gauche cousin to the Piña Colada, the whiskey is subservient to the coconut and it’s something I could happily consume all night.
Menu is extensive and includes everything from King Crab Truffle Salad and Wagya Anticucho to Grilled Octopus and Glazed Half Chicken. Available for parties of two or more, there are three tasting menus, each consisting of four ‘Chapters’. We eschew the Athenian Taverna and the Mykonian Aura but opt for the Greek Nostos, sold by its tagline: ‘a nostalgic journey to the heart of Greece.’
If Chapter 1 is essentially appetisers, puffed up pitta with super smooth houmous and marinated olives, Chapter 2 is more substantial and contains my favourite of the evening. Moussaka might have been exotic in the seventies but over the decades lost its allure and even its identity in a clash with lasagna. It’s certainly not the prettiest dish of the night but the combination of caramelised aubergine and pulled short rib bottomed with Graviera cheese and topped with crispy onions is comfort food at its most elevated. Succulent and texturally varied, it’s gratifying to experience this twist on a classic. The Robata Squid’s fleshy pink resembles a barely grilled organ except for the limb-like striations at its front. It’s actually chargrilled and super succulent and is presented on a lime dressing for extra tang and a rich taramasalata cream for extra Oceanic companionship. The Mykonian Salad is no less impressive; the feta topping looks like the result of a surprise snowfall in the kitchen. Whitening a colourful salad consisting of heirloom tomatoes, olives, and thyme rusks, sweet and crunchy abound in a dish finished in balsamic glaze.
We take one of the white Greek wines, Malagouzia-Assyrtiko Thymiopoulos, for Chapter 3. We’re opting out of the Rib Eye Steak and replacing it with Sea Bream so the refreshing and aromatic Macedonian wine works perfectly. Portions are generous and it’s like sharing three mains and two sides when we’ve already had three more than ample starters plus nibbles. But no-one’s complaining and my friend spends a fair amount of time positively cussing in delight.
The King Prawn Linguine lands heavily on the pasta and we reluctantly leave a good portion of it to allow ourselves more of everything else. Still, it’s rich and tomatoey and the prawns perfectly chunky. From a distance, the two Octopus tentacles could be mistaken for king prawns; they’re covered in a green parsley vinaigrette and accompanied by a beige fave purée and sprinklings of dill. Grilled on the outside, tender on the inside, they’re irresistible. The Sea Bream is more lean and chargrilled but its meat is clean and pure and comes with kale, smooth red pepper and aubergine sauces.
Special mention should also go to the sides which are way more complex and enticing than a reductive ‘chips and sweetcorn’ might suggest. Only half-skinned, the former must be double if not triple fried for extra crunch and come with their own cheesy dip whilst the latter, smothered in spicy mayo and sprinkled with parmesan, could give a Mexican elotes a run for its money.
Before the final Chapter, I hit the bathroom and check out Fenix’s interior design. Clean whites and subtle creams mix with heartier terracotta and blush for a natural aesthetic so that Fenix is paradoxically bright and easy on the eye but dark and atmospheric due to its moody lighting. There’s lemon plants and olive trees to spruce things up with everything from wooden beams to Greek paving to rattan lampshades for a never dull visual moment. Divided into three dining rooms, the space is way bigger than its exterior suggests. As you enter, an ante-chamber type dining area on the right shares its space with a neat little bar. Opposite, an open plan kitchen also serves as a dining counter around its three sides. Past this is the largest space in which we’re sitting and behind which is an over-spill annex.
Chapter 4 feels like sweet Greek dessert heaven. A large portion of whipped frozen yoghurt is surrounded by six help yourself, throw ‘em on top delectables which range from fresh strawberries and candied walnuts to shredded philo and Greek donuts. Our waitress recommends we pour the honey onto the yoghurt first and then go wild so that’s exactly what we do. It’s a pure and honest way to end an extravagant evening full of twists and charms.
