Mas de Torrent Hotel & Spa Review

An elegant, timeless retreat in the heart of Empordá, the sought-after countryside of the Costa Brava, Hotel Mas de Torrent is a delight. With 39 suites, the signature Mas de Torrent restaurant, the spectacular Mas Spa, as well as a dreamy pool and gardens, this Relais & Châteaux property immerses you in Catalan charm and history.

Resonates with the history and culture of this remarkable region, Mas de Torrent is an 18th-century Catalan masía (farmhouse) on the Costa Brava that has been respectfully renovated and extended whilst retaining its distinctive character. This refined, contemporary retreat is imbued with the thoughtful approach to hospitality that defines the boutique Unico Hotels collection. Here you feel at home, calmed by the gentle embrace of historical surroundings, with thick stone walls, the vaulted ceilings, and the handmade terracotta floor tiles worn smooth by generations of footsteps.

A Sense of Place

The masía was once the heart of a rural community, the centre of agricultural life in this fertile region of Catalonia. Today, it still sits at the heart of the Torrent, offering tempting gastronomy and a fabulous destination spa.

The property’s founder, hotelier Pau Guardans, was clear with his vision, confirming, “I’m drawn to the luxury found in simple things done exceptionally well, without pretence. With this project, we sought to preserve this gem of luxury hospitality, honouring its legacy while refreshing the experience for today’s travellers.”

This philosophy is evident everywhere. The original structure of the farmhouse has been preserved – those magnificent stone walls, arches, Catalan vaults, and floors remain intact. Yet within this historic setting, contemporary comforts have been thoughtfully integrated.

The interior design by Pilar García-Nieto (who is also the talent behind the distinctive laidback luxury of Finca Serena and The Lodge Mallorca) uses a palette of earthy colours, natural materials, together with rustic and antique furnishings. Large windows frame views of the Empordà countryside, creating a seamless dialogue between the historic interior and the timeless landscape beyond.

Morning Light

My first full day at the property begins looking over the gardens that slope gently toward distant views of the medieval village of Pals. The light here has a quality that has drawn artists for generations.

I begin to understand why this region captivated figures like Josep Maria Sert (whose “Catalan Evocations” paintings hang in the main house), Salvador Dalí, and even Coco Chanel.

After breakfast, I borrow one of the hotel’s bicycles to explore the nearby countryside. The gentle terrain of Empordà makes cycling accessible, along well sign-posted country trails that wind through fields and pines as we make our way toward the medieval village of Pals.

This hilltop village dates back to the 4th century. Its narrow cobblestone streets wind upward to a Gothic quarter dominated by a 12th-century Romanesque tower. It’s a joy to explore, with the sunlight illuminating the warm sandstone of the beautifully maintained building s

Peratallada, another remarkable medieval village, is also worth a visit. Its name coming from “pedra tallada” (carved stone), so evocative of this charming community that is indeed carved from golden stone. A moat still surrounds parts of this fortified settlement, and its main square is home to restaurants serving traditional Catalan cuisine beneath stone arcades.

Lunch on the Terrace

Back at Mas de Torrent, lunch on the terrace at Las Brasas del Mas offers a casual yet refined experience. I begin with a gilda – the classic Basque pintxo of anchovy, pickled guindilla pepper, and olive on a skewer – and a vermouth. This is followed by Iberian ham with pan con tomate (that quintessential Catalan preparation of bread rubbed with ripe tomato), a tasting of Empordà cheeses with house-made jams, creamy croquettes filled with roast meat and Iberian ham, and cod fritters with Figueres onion and olive paste.

The highlight an ‘arroz meloso’ made with rice from Pals (the local village is also famous for its rice production) with brilliant red prawns from nearby Palamós. Dessert brings homemade chocolate fritters and others stuffed with apple.

Wellbeing

For a little afternoon pampering, I visit the MasSpa. Housed in a standalone building constructed with sustainability in mind, the wooden structure seems to emerge organically from the landscape.

Inside, the 600-square-metre wellbeing centre offers thoughtfully designed wet and dry areas for both men and women, treatment rooms, and an indoor pool. The spa experience feels authentic while thoughtful details like the warm towels and warmed essential oils add to the sense of relaxing indulgence. The treatment uses products from Natura Bissé.

Destination Experiences

The Costa Brava beckons with experiences, and the concierge team are eager to share signature excursions that include a half/day adventure aboard the Mas de Torrent boat, their elegant Gozzo 35 that departs from nearby Palamós harbour. As we cruise along the rugged coastline, skipper Sergio points out hidden coves accessible only by water. We anchor in one such bay where the water is an impossible shade of turquoise and enjoy a class of Finca Serena Mallorca rosé wine – life feels good.

We pass Cala s’Alguer, a small beach flanked by traditional fishermen’s huts painted in white, with colourful accents in yellow, red, and blue. The simple structures have been preserved as part of the region’s heritage, a reminder of the Costa Brava’s authentic maritime traditions that existed long before tourism discovered these shores.

Another experience that I cannot recommend enough is a guide visit to the Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol, just a short drive from the hotel. Salvador Dalí purchased this medieval fortified house as a gift for his wife and muse, Gala. The building itself is fascinating, and the stories of life here, captivating, like the elderly owner of the restaurant next door who was the cook for Gala.

Gastronomy

The greatest reward upon returning to Mas de Torrent is the inner at the fine dining signature restaurant elevates the experience further. As part of the Relais & Châteaux network of gastronomic hotels, Mas de Torrent takes its cuisine seriously. Chef Marc Alcalde’s dishes honour the recipes and traditions of Catalonia’s rural gastronomic heritage while adding contemporary refinement.

My evening begins with Pyrenees butter garum with black olive and anchovy on toast, accompanied by a breadbasket and extra virgin olive oils from Arbequina, Picual, and Empeltre olives grown at Finca Serena in Mallorca.

The first courses arrive: wild seabass ceviche vibrant with citrus; vitello tonnato presented with a delicate pickled mustard; and zucchini flowers stuffed with fresh cheese in a light tempura batter. These give way to roast three-meat cannelloni with béchamel and roast juice – a dish that exemplifies the Catalan approach to “mar i muntanya” (sea and mountain), combining ingredients from different terrains.

The main course of grilled turbot is a study in simplicity and technique – the fish cooked perfectly, served with its own juice infused with garlic and vitet (a local pepper), accompanied by potatoes, small onions, peppers, and piparras. Dessert brings a Xuixo from Girona – a deep-fried pastry filled with cream and served with coffee ice cream.

Pool Suite

While Mas de Torrent offers 39 suites distributed across the property, I stayed in one of the seven Pool Suites that promised privacy and outdoor living, with a thoughtful design with materials and a neutral colour palette. Here, my own 5 x 2.5m pool beckoned each morning and afternoon.

The suite feels like a small cottage, with a hallway, dressing room, living room, separate bedroom that can be made cosy with the thick, diving velvet curtains, a spacious showroom with a separate W.C.

Welcomed as a Friend

Susana, the general manager, embodies the Relais & Châteaux philosophy of welcoming guests into a home rather than merely a hotel. This is amplified by the very personal touches from Unico Hotel’s founder, Pau Guardans, whose grandfather, a Barcelona businessman and lover of art, fell in love with this area decades ago.

In this globalised era, Mas de Torrent remains distinctly, profoundly unique, offering refined Catalan hospitality, and showcasing the glorious Costa Brava region.