Jang Restaurant Review

Barely a hop, skip, or a jump from Bank tube station, The Royal Exchange stands majestic in the centre of London’s City. Opposite the Bank of England, it’s pincered by Cornhill and Lombard Street, two formerly busy thoroughfares which are now semi-pedestrianised with only buses and cycles allowed between 7 am and 7 pm. Worth a visit for its Neoclassical architecture alone, the Royal Exchange’s massive atrium houses a Fortnum & Mason eaterie in its middle as well as upmarket boutiques such as Tiffany, Hermès and Omega. 

Jang is located at the far end on the right. It’s a small but theatrical entrance.  Up seven increasingly narrow stairs, through a glowing red doorway decorated with flowers and fairy lights which could easily double as Christmas cheer. Inside, to the left is an oval marble surfaced bar with tall seats and to the right, the restaurant. We’re greeted by the charmingly convivial Maitre’D, Max, who leads us to our table and before we’ve even sat down, has offered a glass of Ruinart. Who are we to refuse? Our table overlooks the Exchange’s atrium so that everything below, the diners, the drinkers, the city workers, the tourists, are our theatre for the following few hours. Behind, Jang mixes the dramatic with the intimate. Its warm embryonic hue reminds of 70s steak houses but its sides and ceiling are full of curved arches, large ashlars and intricate cornicing for a cosy but also bold and refined atmosphere. Music complies to groovy lounge.

The menu is a fusion of Korean with Japanese and we explore cuisine from both countries in our meal’s choice. The Sushi Selection is a feast in and of itself with four salmon maki topped with crispy shallots, four tuna maki coloured with orange spicy mayo and four nigiri which includes more salmon, more tuna and seam bream. An elevated taste found in extra fresh and higher quality sushi means it all bursts with a pleasing succulence. The rice offers the perfect foil for the fish, neither too slushy nor too hard, too warm, nor too cold.

We opt for wine of the week “Etna” Planeta which is served in a pretty, bulbous glass with a dainty stem and originates from Sicily. Max and our waitress, Neda, offer different ways to consume the Yuk Hwe steak tartar which is served in a chunky, creamy porcelain bowl. Roughly cut by hand to variously stringy and thick effect, the steak sits in a shallow pool of charcoal oil and egg yolk, is served with a healthy dollop of pear sorbet and large snatches of seaweed tempura in a side dish. The tempura can be used as a spoon to mix up the ingredients and consume them. The sweeter sorbet offsets the subtly spicy tartar for a surprisingly light offering full of charisma. 

We’re tempted by the Jang KFC (Kentucky or Korean!?) which doubles as a starter and a main and can be pimped up with 10 or 20 grams of Royal Beluski Caviar. It’s a tough call but in the end we abstain. The Spicy Miso Black Cod is a winner and offers the perfect, mix of silkiness and flakiness. The Dry-aged Sirloin comes from the BBQ section and is presented on a bowl with a metal grill and one piece of glowing charcoal underneath, more to keep the steak warm than to cook it. Medium rare, it’s presented in chunky, cut slices and with a sprinkling of sea salt. It’s super tender and has that earthier, beefier flavouring that dry ageing provides. Sauces include small portions of Chilli butter, Beetroot Jangajji and Jang Chimichurri but whilst all packing a delicate punch, the sirloin works just as well without. 

Merchant Sir Thomas Gresham was inspired to build the Royal Exchange in the 16th Century as a centre of commerce for the English capital after visiting the Bourse which offered the same for Antwerp. A centre where merchants, brokers and traders could conduct business safely it was opened in 1571 by Queen Elizabeth 1 but was destroyed almost a century later in the Great Fire of London. Its second iteration lasted marginally longer but was damaged by more fire in 1838 which lead to the current structure. If Neda’s knowledge of the building isn’t this detailed, she explains that fire remains a sensitive topic which explains why no candles or hanging lanterns are allowed in the restaurant or indeed the whole building. Her knowledge of and enthusiasm for the menu is unrestrained and she’s happy to take us through various dishes, sharing her thoughts and favourite choices. She’s genuinely excited by Jang and her passion for the restaurant is infectious. 

Curiously, desert doesn’t feature on the menu but, rather, is presented as one of four patisserie-style mini cakes on a tray. The Black Gateau resembles an austere castle from a chess game. The purple flower on its top and bottom provides it with a flourishing drama, however. A dry moat full of chocolate soil and a flat, solid cocoa nib structure provide texture to counterpoint the moist sponge which is enlivened with slithers of black cherries and double cream. The Yuzu Matcha looks like it’s just come from the Chelsea Flower show with blossoming orange petals sprouting from its top which complements the two layers of green matcha sponge below.

By the end of our evening, the Royal Exchange’s clear glass roof is no longer bright but shrouded in the night’s black sky. Atmosphere is moodier, more dramatic and perfectly suits the sensibility of a special and enjoyable evening at Jang.