Brisbane Marriott Hotel Review

Based on the River’s edge of Brisbane’s Central Business District (CBD), the Marriott Bonvoy stands tall and thin, not entirely dissimilar to a New York style hotel, and offers easy access to river walks and all the bars and restaurants that congregate accordingly by the water. As well as a swimming pool, dry sauna and gym, the hotel offers a ‘Rare and Exceptional Cellar List’ which includes Jeroboams and Methuselah’s of champagne. Watch out for afternoon teas on Friday and Saturday, a frivolous but enjoyable way to while away your afternoon. 

Outside Brisbane’s Marriott Bonvoy, a small but life-size bronze sculpture blends in with green shrubbery. Two young adults stretch their hands upwards. A boy cracks a whip or casts a tribal instrument into the air, doing his best to catch the stars. A girl sits by his side. A bird with large wingspan flies above the boy and a bird with smaller wingspan, above the girl. It’s a charming, kinetic piece called ‘Gifts’ by Rhyll Hinwood and is inspired by a poem written by Aboriginal activist Oodgeroo Noonuca. The poem, engraved next to it on a bronze plaque, investigates love and romance but concludes with a pithiness about life’s exigencies; rather than fancy gifts offered by her lover, the girl just wants food to sustain her. In this case, tree grubs. The sculpture’s location, being in the centre of Brisbane’s CBD, means some wag has put a cycle helmet on the young girl’s head. Beware of life’s vicissitudes, maybe?

The Bonvoy concentrates on the more fantastic things in life, naturally, and I’m pleasantly surprised by the offer of Australian sparkling wine upon check-in; it’s Easter Friday and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate. With marble flooring and a proscenium-type arch which, from the entrance, frames the reception as a place where everything starts and ends, the interior has a classic, if intimate, New York vibe to it. Similarly, the hotel is tall and slim, stretching to 27 floors and wouldn’t look out of place in Manhattan. 

I’m staying on the 22nd floor, my room 2202. Immediately on the left is the bathroom with tub and shower, gels etc provided by in transit. Bright beige floor tiles offset darker grey walls. A narrow passage quickly leads to the bedroom which mixes similarly hued grey walls with a vertical beige headrest. Opposite the bed is a flat screen TV. Adjacent, a beige chaise longue stretches out by the window, takes advantage of the room’s highlight; Its stunning view of the famous steel cantilevered Story Bridge which crosses the Brisbane River from North to South.

If the spectacle is dramatic during the day with passing cars, jetskis and canoes in the river resembling flitting or flailing insects, at night the bridge becomes an unpredictable and ever-changing light show of Las Vegan proportions. Expect events as disparate as the Brisbane Comedy Festival, the death of Pope Francis and World Haemophilia Day to be marked.  During my stay, the bridge is illuminated in dark and light blue to celebrate not Christ’s resurrection but Australian Open Swimming Championships.   

As if vying for its own light show admiration, electric blue cove lighting practically turns the executive lounge into an exotic nightspot. Located on the 26th floor, this is open to members of the Marriott Bonvoy rewards program or Brisbane guests who book Executive Rooms. Breakfast is served daily as are a selection of alcoholic beverages from 5.30 to 8.30. Robert Oatley Vineyards’ Chain of Fire range offers Brut Cuvée and Chardonnay whilst Woodbrook Farm offers up Sauvignon Blanc. Red wines, beer and soft drinks also feature. A generous selection of sweet and savoury snacks is available and includes everything from duck spring rolls to tiramisu squares to a moreish cheeseboard.

On the ground floor, a large space a few metres away from reception includes Motion Dining, the M Bar, an open kitchen and a supremely large fridge stocked with various-sized Moet & Chandon bottles. The square metreage of two or three tennis courts, each smaller area blends into the other and three balustrades seem to hold up the ceiling which is dominated by two gold, contemporary art-like chandeliers made up of an array of thin flying objects which could be broom sticks but are probably not. I spend a large proportion of my time in this space. 

Given that it’s Easter weekend, Easter eggs abound and some of the waitresses wear bunny ears. Of course, all the regulars – fresh fruit, bread, fried stuff – are available for breakfast and it’s pleasing to to hear the crackle and spit from the kitchen as eggs and bacon fry nearby. One thing I’ve never seen at hotel breakfast before is a juicer. Choose from a selection of beetroot, celery, carrot, apple, ginger and spinach and juice your own concoction. It couldn’t be fresher, obviously, and goes down a treat but can’t match the chocolate fountain. Yes! For breakfast! With both sweet and fresh options to dip into the molten chocolate. Pineapple, strawberries, melon and watermelon form the healthier choices whilst marshmellows, pretzels form the less healthy ones. There’s Turkish delight and muffins too and the sugary spread feels and tastes like every schoolboy (or girl)’s favourite midnight feast.

Bringing a notion of English high society to the hotel, on Fridays and Saturdays, Motion Dining is also known for its self styled ‘Brisbane’s most iconic High Tea.’ My serviette has, origami style, been folded into rabbit ears and I’m surrounded by bright, florally dressed ladies who do more than just lunch. I start with a perfectly chilled glass of Moet & Chandon which is a delight but doesn’t prepare me for the High Tea’s array of choice. The top of the three tiered cake stand shows off the sweet section which includes colourful, playful, pretty patisserie items. Mango Yuzu Cheesecake with Green Tea Sponge, Cashew and Cream Crunch and Zesty Orange Caramel Groove Tart, Petit Macaroons all beg for attention but of course, thermost obvious homage to Easter wins out: Dark Chocolate Brownie with Vanilla Sphere and Easter egg on top. Sandwiches are served in the middle tier and come in the form of two each of Dill Pickle Shrimp Roll, Smoked Turkey with Apple Remoulade, Tamago Sando, etc. The bottom tier is full of Vanilla Scones and Hot Cross Buns with various jams and whipped cream but there’s so much on offer, I don’t even touch these. 

If you’re feeling especially frisky with your wallet, Motion offers a ‘Rare & Exceptional Cellar List.’ Domestic wines top out at just over $400 Aus, but a 6-litre Methuselah of Moet & Chandon beats the competition at $3699 Aus, while a 1996 Dom Perignon is the most expensive champagne if measured glass by glass. At dinner, we opt for a Philip Shaw The Architect Chardonnay, which offers a clean, citrus taste. The Grilled Squid and Watermelon salad seems like a light proposition and is a visual riot of red melon, green coriander and white bean sprouts. The squid is juicy and succulent, pure and tender, but watch out for the occasional, surprising slice of pickled ginger.  My friend has the Yuzu Lime and Mint Charred Chicken, which is similarly succulent and comes with slices of raw cabbage. 

If I squint, my Aged Rump steak may look like a burger, but it bursts, nonetheless, with blood when cut and offers no-nonsense leanness. I take thick Housemade Pepper sauce and Dijon Mustard for extra frisson and enjoy the Steakhouse Chips, the crunchiness of which suggests they’re double,e if not triple, fried. The Tasmanian Salmon is served with its skin, also crunchy, facing up. It hasn’t had to travel too far, tastes fresh and clean accordingly, is succulent and meaty. The lemon butter sauce and asparagus provide further texture and flavour. For reasons we never gauge, our waitress gives us two chunks of salmon. We protest weakly but accept, which means the desert is tough.

We gallantly soldier on, and the Sticky Date Pudding served with caramel sauce and Ice cream is worth the perseverance. It comes with caramelised sugar chunks and salted caramel in the ice cream. My friend takes the cheeseboard which is a generous portion, served with brie, gorgonzola and cheddar, dried apricot and apple and fresh blackberries. 

The next day, the only plausible option is a relaxing sojourn by the pool, which, like most Brisbane hotel,s is half in/half out. Situated on the 4th floor, the entire pool is covered by the floor above it and for colder moments, the three open sides have glass partitioning to shut out the elements. Loungers lie along two of the three sides and views stretch to the Story Bridge and along Queen Street which, amongst so many buildings, reminds of a Monaco Grand Prix stretch. The pool area is at its most charming later in the day, as the sun sets and lights from nearby skyscrapers, the Story Bridge and Howard Smith wharf offer an ever-changing melange of reds and blues and greens and oranges, some of which flicker hypnotically in the river’s reflection.  It’s time for me to leave, however, and, on my way out, I notice these aren’t the only colours which change. The white crash helmet on the ‘Gifts’ sculpture has been replaced by a green one. Make of that what you will.