Situated in Yeouido, Seoul’s financial district, the Conrad Hilton is a slick and slim building which stretches to thirty-seven floors and boasts dramatic views of the nearby Han River and central Seoul’s tower block skyline. Although the nearby Yeouido Park provides pretty greenery, pagodas and ponds through which to stroll, much closer is the International Finance Centre (IFC) mall which offers an array of both Western and Korean brands and a plethora of food stops.
Seoul, Yeongdeungpo-Gu
Conrad Seoul
(5 stars)The IFC is actually located in the hotel’s basement, one stop below the spacious reception, which is L-shaped. Where the letter’s base and stem join, a massive swirling staircase offers function and visual dynamism while the seemingly endless beige flecked marble floor shines like a mirror and reflects the exo-skeletal girders which provide further function and drama. Two-dimensional tree trunk sculptures line some of the dark wooden walls and Gingko tree leaf shapes hanging from the ceiling.
I’m staying in an Executive Room with city/river aspect on the sixteenth floor, the view for which is hypnotic and takes in not only central Seoul but two bridges joining it to Yeouido. In the foreground, in front of the river, grass roofs mix with red triangular girders for an uncanny but benign dystopic sensation where human presence is felt but never seen. The room itself mixes beige, ochre and aquamarine green palettes for a calm but warm sentiment. The bathroom shines head to toe with similar but lighter marble as the reception and offers not only walk in shower but a bath and a his-and-hers sink. The sandstone tiles conjure up desert-like hallucinations of distant horizons so, fittingly, Mojave ghost soap (inspired by the American desert of the same name) shower gel and shampoo are provided by Swedish luxury brand Byredo.
The bed is large and comfy and sits below an oblong of abstract colour field art. There’s a curved desk to work on, a chaise longue to lounge on, Hershey’s chocolates to nibble on and airplane spirit bottles to imbibe on. Like most hotel rooms, lighting and aircon is a bit of an initiative test until I discover the half shoebox-sized flat screen by the side of the bed is, in fact, a control panel. Functions include alarm clock, temperature control, light switch (on, off, 30%, 60%, 90% brightness) and blinds operator. Control couldn’t be simpler and works at the literal flick of a switch for a room that exudes both precision and comfort.
The executive lounge sits on the hotel’s 37th and top floor. I miss afternoon tea but make it for cocktail hour and finger food/snacks around 7 pm. The space, especially at this hour, is the definition of quiet and moody elegance with low lighting, comfy grey sofas and a stunning wrap-around view which covers three out of four perspectives onto greater Seoul. Large wooden cabinets display nature-inspired sculptures and coffee-table-type books and there’s even a fireplace. It’s easy to sink into a sofa and watch the clouds swirl in front of one’s eyes, mingle and reproduce and then completely disappear. One side of the view is pitch black whilst another side burns brightly from the fading beams of a descending sun. Help yourself to an array of wine, cava, spirits and beer and also an impressive buffet. You can easily consume a three-course meal here and hot offerings in large casserole bowls range from Grilled Pork Cheek with Chilli Sauce and Tomato Beef Stew to Deep Fried and Braised Chicken. I eat lightly and opt for some smoked salmon and dessert, which includes moreish macarons, a cherry pie tartlet and a pistachio sponge cake. Be warned, though, the lounge operates a strict withdrawal policy so on the dot of 8pm, food and beverages are cleared away and lights turned up.
The executive lounge also provides breakfast but I check out the much larger Zest which is on the second floor. Cream coloured leather seats mingle with lighter brown wooden flooring and darker varnished wooden tables all of which starkly contrast the tall, jet-black prep stations which stand opposite each other at a crossroads. Although each station is specifically named – Ocean, Ranch, Bistro, Oriental – the names don’t necessarily offer what they suggest but, still, the choice is extensive. If you want adventure, there’s Spicy Pork Bulgogi, Perilla Seed Seaweed or Coconut Chicken Basil Goreng. I eschew this and the traditional English fried breakfast in favour of a self-made Salmon Bagel one morning and a dainty Eggs Benedict on the second (from the Ranch station). I’m impressed by the Kids section which offers all manner of delights including churros and Nutella and donuts w/smiley faces but help myself instead to the marginally more adult Chocolate Banana Bread Pudding which is a pleasingly extravagant dessert for dinner let alone breakfast.
The Conrad boasts a Spa with a hydrotherapy room, Pulse 8, a fitness centre, and even a TPZ golf studio where golf players practice swings or putts or take lessons from professionals – don’t be surprised, therefore, to see guests wandering around the hotel with golf bags slung over their shoulders. My exercise takes place in the swimming pool, which, at 25 metres long, is designed more for lengths than the usual hotel frolic in water. With visible black girders and art deco lamps, the pool has an interesting architectural aesthetic and, situated on the eighth floor, its clear and open windows look onto nearby office blocks. Swimming feels as much like flying through a cityscape as it does ploughing through water and is such a surreal and intriguing experience I keep thinking I might see a whale navigating the nearby buildings. A word of warning: rules of the pool insist guests wear swimming caps, so bring your own or if not, buy from the pool assistant a jet black one with Conrad Seoul text printed on it.
Next to the Executive Lounge is the hotel’s signature dining and drinking space, Bar 37. A square black marble-topped light bar offers more stunning views of the Seoul skyline with a selection of over 250 whiskies. To its right stands a long, elegant dining space with two open kitchens, a large, bright wine display and an array of cherry red dining chairs which provide the restaurant with an American steakhouse aesthetic. Much like the executive lounge, lighting is dusky and sultry jazz adds to the appealingly moody ambience. I sit at the very end of the restaurant in a secluded alcove which overlooks the city and feels like a private booth. The view is in the same direction as my room but is twenty-one floors higher, so a green helipad glows nearby and the traffic in central Seoul looks like an animated Swarovski diamond bracelet.
I take a Smoked Virtue as I peruse the menu. My waiter tells me it’s like the Godfather. It certainly has a unique presence and is crafted with bacon,= aged in whiskey. It’s smoky, smooth, and strong, and every time I sip, I smell the cocktail stick’s crispy bacon until I eat it and the sweet, black cherry.
I was expecting an upmarket prawn toast but my King Crab Toast ups that ante and then some. Three crunchy bites are topped with a soy sauce and subtle citrus mayonnaise. Strands of white crab meat fill out the middle while, unexpectedly and extravagantly, fresh sea urchins grace each top for a truly special appetiser. Served in a black granite bowl, the Ember-Grilled Octopus is equally special. Tender on the inside, char-grilled on the outside, it retains a pink hue while thin slices of apple, coriander and a mild coconut chilli vinegar add to the exoticism. I’m on a winning streak with ocean fare and opt for King Crab, also soft ember-grilled, for main. I’m not entirely sure what to expect but am presented with the largest crab claw I’ve ever seen. It’s sprinkled with truffle slices and there’s a puddle of hazelnut butter, but the best way to consume the crab is pure and unadulterated. The meat is soft and succulent and, I’d venture to say, the best crab I’ve eaten. I finish with a charcoal black, chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream decorated in cocoa nibs with a side of more ice cream, this time pistachio and cardamom, for what turns out to a righteous melange of tastes and textures.
I take a final Negroni with which to wash dinner down. The barman, rather than the waiter, serves it to me and confides it’s the best Negroni in Seoul. I can’t argue but am happy to agree and feel the same can be said of the rest of my Conrad experience.
