Dunas de Formentera – The Eco-luxe Mediterranean Hideaway

Positioned as the island’s first ‘eco-resort’, the captivatingly charming Dunas de Formentera rural beachside hotel offers barefoot luxury in an unprecedented sea view location surrounded by nature, just steps from a sandy beach. 45 rooms and suites are found within standalone bungalows and duplex buildings, set amongst the sand dunes of Migjorn beach, shaded by twisted juniper trees and fragrant pines. The property’s restaurant, Caliu offers Mediterranean dishes, with many prepared over the Josper grill. There’s also an infinity pool with views to the emblematic azure and aquamarine waters of Formentera.

This year saw the much anticipated opening of Dunas de Formentera, created by the hotel experts Marugal Hotel Management, who are also the talent behind Formentera’s renowned Gecko Hotel & Beach Club. Recently we hopped over to the Pityusic Islands, taking the ferry from Ibiza to Formentera, to check in at the blissful Balearic hideaway of Dunas de Formentera, writes Andrew Forbes (The Luxury Editor).

Formentera is the most extraordinary destination, a Mediterranean island of protected nature that is surrounded by the most stunning waters. Reached only by private boat or public ferry from Ibiza, Formentera could not be more different from its show-off neighbour. It has largely escaped the pressures of mass tourism, retaining its laidback, boho chic vibe – it’s the perfect antidote to the Balearic beats and bling of Ibiza.

New construction is now almost impossible on Formentera, so buildings from past decades are being remodelled and repurposed as upscale hideaways for the 21st century.

Dunas de Formentera has been completely reimagined with Marugal’s flair for hospitality, with a modern sensitivity for the unique natural environment. Formentera is a uniquely shaped island, with a long strip that connects two parts. Dunas de Formentera is on the beach, on the shores of this slim part of the island where, if you get high enough, you can catch glimpses of the sea on both sides – I believe it’s just about a kilometre wide at this point.

The small buildings of Dunas de Formenteram in colours of sandy saffron, have been renovated and reimagined as luxury rooms and suites, with a laid back, Mediterranean beach aesthetic of sun bleached woods, natural linens and curated decorations. The setting is the protagonist. Terraces and balconies look out onto weather-worn juniper trees and twisted pines, which anchor these ancient sand dunes. The view extends to the sea, with its mesmerising bands of aquamarine, and blue running out to the horizon. The setting and location is a delight.

This is the embodiment of slow travel, feeling connected with the destination, away from overt commercialism and instead surrounded by nature and nourished by local cuisine.

Sea, pool or beach club

Wooden plank and rope boardwalks, sunk into the sand, meander across the property and lead you to the infinity pool, the salon, bar and Caliu restaurant, and then down to Migjorn beach. The stretch of shoreline here is one of the best, with its fine sand running down to the impressively clear waters. There’s a renowned chiringuito beach restaurant here too, if you fancy a meal of freshly caught lobster with chilled Albariño wine. Front desk can also arrange a private transfer for the short distance to sister property Gecko Hotel & Beach Club where guests have access to the pool & beach club and dining.

However, if you are anything like me, you will feel perfectly content to stay put, feeling calmed by the meditative sound of the waves and the warm breeze through the trees as you enjoy the infinite pool and beach below.

Caliu Restaurant

We savoured our meals at Caliu, a restaurant that embodies the laidback, barefoot luxury of Formentera.  Tables shaded by the juniper trees are set out on a covered terrace as well as on the sand, so you dine with your toes in the sand basking in the beauty of the location and the sea views. It’s the epitome of relaxed indulgence.

Daily specials like catch of the day, octopus prepared on the grill, and snacks for drinks, like handcrafted gildas are chalked up on a slate board while the main menu is brimming with summery dishes like garden gazpacho, grilled confit of artichokes with romesco sauce, refreshing seabass ceviche, and avocados seared on the Josper grill and topped with tomato and walnuts. There are hearty steaks too, a classic burger and five different artisan pizzas prepared in the authentic pizza oven.

The view is magical. During the evenings the sky is ignited by the warmth of the setting sun, while during the day you have a view of the sea. The waters around the Pityusic Islands, especially Formentera, are renowned for their crystal clarity and vibrant colours, thanks to the ancient Posidonia sea meadows that thrive beneath the surface which oxygenate and cleanse the sea. This means impossibly blue waters that always invite comparison to far-flung destinations. But for me there’s no comparison. this is the essence the beauty of Formentera. You come here for the simplicity, the beauty, the nature, and now thankfully for the stylish accommodation and chic dining. Yes, admittedly prices have climbed, and once dusty beach shacks are now high-end chiringuito restaurants, and once modest bed and breakfasts are now upscale hideaways – but at least the changes are embracing the spirit of the island.

Finding your refuge

Our suite, on the first floor of one of the cottage-style buildings, was thoughtfully designed to offer comfort and privacy, immersing us in the tranquil ambience of the dunes. Materials and colours are sympathetic to the natural setting, with furniture and fixtures in wood and stone, conveying a simplicity and charm that invites you to relax. The quality is where it counts, with the dreamy king bed and its high-end linens, the spacious bathroom with bespoke aromatic toiletries, and the details like a beautiful beach bag with Mediterranean hammam-style towels.

A commitment to sustainability underlines the property, with subtle reminders like the sand hour-glass in the shower, encouraging responsible use of water; and the partitioned waste bin helping guests to separate and recycle. The complimentary guest transfer from Formentera’s port to the property is offered in an ID. Buzz VW electric van, evocative of past bohemian times but with very modern green credentials. These eco gestures are elevated with Maragal’s corporate commitment to sustainability across all its properties, embracing it supply chain, waste management and elimination of single-use plastics.

Dunas de Formentera is a treat for the soul – a place that embraces you with the beauty, charm and stillness of Formentera.