Fenchurch Restaurant

Only the 33rd tallest in London but loved and hated in equal measure, Fenchurch Building has become an iconic part of London’s skyline since its completion in the spring of 2014. Its bulky curve earned its nickname: The Walkie Talkie. Although more defined from a distance, that infamous bend is nonetheless noticeable from up close though you have to tilt your head, and stretch your throat to appreciate it. Carousing with clouds, convex to its side, concave to its front, the reflecting glass, the suspender like girders all contribute to the idea that it might be holding its stomach in, like it might just have come back from a blowout meal in one of its very own eateries. 

As well as the famed Sky Gardens, a glorified, if glorious vantage point with bar which gapes over London’s sprawl, the building houses two restaurants; the more casual Darwin Brasserie and the more upmarket Fenchurch (the 5th and 4th highest restaurants in the capital respectively). Security for the building is tight. You have to be on a list to gain entry and even then, still have to endure the airport-like rigmarole of scanning machines, pocket emptying and not especially friendly guards. One lift takes all visitors to the Sky Gardens on the 35th floor and another, opposite, takes Fenchurch diners two floors higher. 

The second lift opens practically onto the restaurant; a reception desk greets the diner and a bar on the right dazzles him. The space is long and thin and coloured in breezy Autumnal tones; mustard chairs, lime green sofas, and wooden lampshades which glow a beguiling copper. All blend naturally, like they’re old friends. In addition there’s a smattering of real-life greenery and an abundance of natural light which provides for a fascinating if ever changing charge dependent on the time of day and type of weather.

 

The tasting menu with wine pairing seems to match the venue’s grandiloquence and ambition so we opt for that. Given how intricate and delicious the first tranche of offerings are, the menu’s description as ‘Snacks’ seems like a sleight. Fish tea is served in a dainty Alice in Wonderland sized teacup and saucer; it’s warm, frothy on top and tastes like lobster bisque. It comes with both moreish Beef tartare (soft) tacos and a delicious honey glazed, sweet potato brioche roll served with both Haddock butter and Tomato butter. Although technically the next dish, Heirloom Tomato comes concurrently and is a proper English country garden salad consisting of different sized, shaped, coloured but all sweet tomatoes. Cucumber, pepper and avocado purée accompany. Served with a Hambledon Classic Cuvée from Hampshire, this sparkling wine adds to the English country garden effect, smelling, as it does, of freshly mown grass. 

The Jerk Salmon Ceviche is almost an interstitial course before the two mains. It’s served in a bowl which looks like it has wings and might fly away. The wings are actually wafer thin, air fried plantain crisps and work well as dipping spoons. The salmon is generously portioned and mixed with chunks of mango, mustard seeds, cod roe, yuzu ponzu, lime and ginger for a refreshing dish communicating a ton of flavour. It’s accompanied by everyone’s favourite Rosé, Whispering Angel, which not only compliments the dish’s flavours but its more delicate shades of pastel and blush colouring.

As the sun sets, West of London looks like someone’s set fire to it and we’re treated to Black Cod. Another orchestra of finely tuned tastes, it’s glazed in Guinness and is served with a green (Osciestra) caviar, Kholrabi and Seaweed brandade. The cod is buttery and silky and is also served with an orange honey butter sauce for even more succulent and fruity effect. Its pairing is a rich and rounded dry white Harslevelu from Hungary. The BBQ Quail is also succulent but has a little more crunch on the outside. It’s a tidy, self-contained presentation with less sauce than the Black Cod but still a glorious mix of peas, potato, truffle sauce and wild garlic. Our first red wine of the night is the Origine de Desmirail, from Margaux, Bordeaux. It has a rich, inspired taste, a mixture of leather and cloves.

We arrived at 7pm, the restaurant’s already thinning out and technically we’re still at the pre-pre-dessert stage. The Heston Blumenthal inspired Colston Basset Stilton Ice Cream, to my mind, takes the biscuit from an already exotic barrel. It’s hard to work out exactly what’s on offer as a crisp lattice of Sourdough obscures the ice cream which, itself, obscures the walnut base which looks like it might obscure some pickled gherkins. Thankfully this isn’t the case; they’re actually pickled raisins. There’s also milk foam, rosemary and salt flavouring from the sourdough, candied walnut gel and some fennel somewhere. This savoury ice cream is a psychological brain twister, its taste in complete conflict with its texture, which, of course, is what makes it so fascinating. I can’t get enough of it. It’s served with Taylor’s 10 years old  Tawny Port from Duoro, Portugal, and from a Jeroboam for additional drama. Sweet, it’s a favourite with cheese and, as it turns out, ice cream. 

Additional drama comes with the official ‘Pre-Dessert.’ Whoever set fire to London might just have set fire to something under our dish. In reality, it’s a spectacle of whirling smoke and swirling dry ice, a mini goth festival before our very eyes. The effect lasts for a long time but finally clears to reveal two soursop lollies on a block of ice, sprinkled with something red and powdery for a slightly chopped finger vibe. Each lolly comes with a rum and lime gummy bear and is suitably refreshing and a great palate cleanser for the, honest guv, final dish, which comes in two fragments and has quite a convoluted title.

‘Chef Kerth Gumbs Conkie Dumpling Inspired Dessert ‘Le Ducana Cake’’ main element is a sweet potato muffin with a glorious swirling of sweetery which looks like it could be worn at Ascot. The second element is a mini, if rather exotic, Cornetto. It’s hard to know which to feast on first. The muffin has a brandy snap, has a generous swirl of lemon meringue whipped soufflé and is sprinkled with cinnamon. The Cornetto is mango flavoured ice cream with strawberry jam at its bottom. It’s accompanied by Coteaux du Saumur from Langlois-Chateau in the Loire Valley. To be honest, it’s pretty late by now and I can’t remember what the wine tastes like but I’m pretty sure, like everything else, it’s a carefully considered winner. 

We finish our Tasting Menu around 10.30.  We’re pretty much the last diners to leave and are full of compliments for our excellent waiter, sommeliers, kitchen staff and, of course, chef. I received a text from my friend the next morning and couldn’t have summed it up better myself: “Menu was like eating poetry… beatifically created, thoughtfully presented, sensually pleasing, fluffily beautiful and a bombastic conversation piece! Can we go back again, soon, please!?”