Lucky Cat by Gordon Ramsay – Review

Back in the mid-noughties, the opening of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze represented another building block in his ascendant career. A departure from the chef’s haute cuisine empire, it marked a move into more European and Asian influenced, smaller plate sharing. From 2006-2015 it held a Michelin star during which time I went twice and very much enjoyed both visits. It closed in 2019 and was quickly replaced by another Ramsay adventure, Lucky Cat, wherein the European element was dropped but the Asian plate sharing was retained. 

More isolated at the top of Grosvenor Square than it would be in the nearby, restaurant-strewn Berkeley Square, a midnight blue seeps out of the restaurant’s windows, a quiet assertion in this quiet part of town. Less quiet is its pillar framed entrance, overwhelmed by garlands worthy of the Chelsea Flower Show. Inside, a sign glows red and announces the restaurant’s name with a mixture of English and Asian neon typography. To the right sits a more casual bar and to the left, the dining space. Long, narrow, dark, cool, black bamboo shoots form the much of its walling. Opposite our table, backlit wine coolers neighbour four vitrines inside of which close to two hundred, golden, and yes, lucky, cats wave. 

It’s Thursday night, 7.30 pm and we sit right behind a DJ who’s set has more personality than most in this kind of environment. The sound system is good and we don’t have to shout to hear each other or our waiter, Granite. He recommends 5-6 sharing plates and will inform us if we order too much or, indeed, too little. Sommelier Fotaq offers us a Perrier-Jouët and we happily accept. There’s a Sushi counter at the far end so this inspires our first order. Five nigiri. The Salmon is lightly cooked, flame torched for that slight grilled flavour. Tuna is decorated with a smattering of caviar and there’s Sea Bass and Yellowtail. It’s all super fresh and succulent but beware the interloper; Wagyu Beef. Lightly grilled, it’s served with a dollop of mustard mayonnaise and is pretty delicious but something of a spoiler for our next order; wagyu beef.  

Ironically, it’s our Australian Wagyu Beef Tataki which is raw but the sushi which is cooked. At cursory glance, the dish reminds of Bagatelle’s infamous Chocolate Pizza but, of course, tastes nothing like it. It’s decorated with large slices of truffle, circles of mayonnaise, assorted greenery and ponzu drizzle. The combo of meaty, earthy, citrusy flavours is a winner and for me, the standout dish; a sublime feast. The Bonito Fried Duck Leg Bao is a slightly upmarket version of the Chinese staple crispy duck pancakes. It’s served with hoisin sauce, pickles and something similar to spring onion.  Granite mashes up the decent sized duck leg at the table and the bao buns are branded with the restaurant’s name. The duck is both super crispy and succulent and the buns must do a good job of soaking up alcohol. 

Every table should order at least one portion of GFC as a show of solidarity, a display of admiration, a gesture of encouragement, don’t give it up, Gordon!   A wordplay, an homage even to the mighty KFC (Kentucky, Korean, Kennington, take your pick), Ramsay’s gone self-reverential with his Gordon’s Fried Chicken but as the man himself might well ask, why the f**k not!?  He’s been in the kitchen trenches longer than most, has had his ups, his downs, hasn’t always helped himself, sometimes, maybe, has even shot himself in anatomical parts when others would have preferred to do it themselves. But, he is a survivor, a charismatic one at that, and long may his influence and dedication to the world he orbits be felt. GFC is posh fast food when you’re not going anywhere fast and a comforting treat when you least knew you needed one but its’s crunchy and sticky and the miso paste and unexpected half of lime elevates it. 

We have a long chat with Fotaq as to what wine to order. We discuss Croatian and Greek grapes and let him guide us towards the latter. He hones in on the Malagousian grape, almost extinct by the 1970s but now undergoing a positive resurgence mainly due to Vangelis Gerovassiliou. It makes sense, therefore, that we go with the Gerovassiliou Malagousia, a vivid straw colour with a fruity but creamy texture which will work with our two mains. 

My companion starts screaming, ‘Wow!’ And doesn’t stop. It could almost be that scene from When Harry Met Sally but is in fact in reference to the Korean Spiced Black Cod, which has just arrived. The screaming lasts for a while and she’s definitely left the conversation, only rejoins when the cod has disappeared, asks why it’s called black when it’s obviously white!?  I can’t answer so continue on the Short Rib. Thai ‘phat phet’ (spicy stir fry) is mentioned in the menu but the spice is very subtle and the sauce erring towards a Sunday roast gravy but with more texture. The rib is served off the bone, is delicate and tender and works well with the grilled broccoli sprinkled with fried shallots. 

We share a Hokkaido French toast for dessert. It’s an adventurous decision as we’re not really sure what to expect. A literal interpretation could be a flat piece of Japanese bread soaked in eggs, then fried. Of course, it’s nothing of the sort. If the caramelised beer’s sticky goo and the yeast ice cream’s dollop influence its taste, it’s the banana which defines it. Soft, almost silky in texture, the French toast also reminds of bread pudding. Casually refined, charming but familiar, the desert, much like the rest of the Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat experience, is one not to be missed.