Nanyang Blossom

Nanyang Blossom aims to showcase the vibrant and diverse culinary traditions of China’s Nanyang region, otherwise known as the ‘South Sea’. With behemoth institutions such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and the Mandarin Oriental dominating Knightsbridge’s central triangle, it’s a relatively inconspicuous restaurant, located as it is, down a relatively inconspicuous alley. The alley connects Knightsbridge, the thoroughfare, to Old Brompton Road, both of which swarm with shoppers stomping, occasionally stampeding, breathing in the city’s most expensive exhaust fumes. 

Thankfully, once inside Nanyang Blossom, its atmosphere couldn’t be more antithetical. A Chinese lute soundtrack immediately soothes the senses. The space is dainty, intimate and calming. The interior design is sparse but elegant and appeals to all things natural; fine-grained, dark wooden tables, similar wall panels, lights hanging like green candle wicks, chain mail rippling throughout like a caring breeze. Each table, of which there are barely more than two handfuls, is offset by a lavender-coloured, pink-petalled flower decoration. 

It seems rude not to try the restaurant’s eponymous cocktail which, with its tall, elegant glass striking a purple pose, coordinates perfectly with the table decoration and is, perhaps, the purplest drink in the whole of London. Vodka-based, infused with lychee and coconut, it’s fruity and eminently quaffable. My friend opts for a less emblematic, more enigmatic Smoky Assam which isn’t even on the menu but is an Asian riff on the Penicillin. A slower, pear-coloured drink, it starts with an almost ginger hit but ends with a subtle yet whisky-sour twist.  

To make our life easy, we opt for the ‘Nanyang set’ sharing option which starts with what could be mistaken for an amuse bouche but, a mixture of cherry tomatoes pickled with osmanthus flowers, is more a gesture to open our taste buds. It’s sweet but cool and seems to do the trick; the crab fritters and the chicken satay are both delicious. The former is served with slices of mango, the latter with cinnamon pickled cucumber and pineapple. Neither, however, can compete with the exotic, verging on the downright bizarre, spicy oatmeal squid. Who would’ve thought it? Oatmeal conjures up winter school mornings. Squid conjures up Mediterranean tavernas. So what does this conjure up? Well, the batter is light and crispy. The squid is super fresh and firm. The oats are lightly toasted, possess a hint of spice and look like sawdust. All tastes vie for attention and, against the odds, work ludicrously well together. It’s hard to say what the combination conjures in the imagination but the portion is generous and is the first of two standout dishes.     

The second comes with the mains; Knightsbridge crispy ribs. These should be legendary. Chinatown should be damned. People should be talking about them beyond Knightsbridge’s confines. Epicureans should be flocking here for them. And so on. Their appearance belies their eminence. They look like sweet n sour chunks of beef but actually, are closer in conceit to shredded beef. Crunchy on the outside with succulent rib meat on the inside, a thin burst of fat separates the two and accompanies every mouthful. Each chunk has a slight caramel veneer. Roast garlic and medjool dates accompany.  We practically fight for the right to finish the dish. One shouldn’t dismiss the Josper grilled baba chicken, of course. Consisting of leg, skin and breast, it’s a heady mix of mango, pineapple, dainty cuts of onion and red chilly. It makes for a fruity but spicy tang and is presented with a bunch of Lilliputian flowers. The egg fried rice is fluffy and light and the seasonal vegetables with garlic are uncomplicated and refreshing. 

As often is the case with the best meals, we feel we’ve eaten well but don’t feel over-fed which is lucky because the dessert platter awaits. Our waitress cum sommelier recommends a Tokai sweet wine from Hungary. Served on a flat platter with a slice of strawberry to brighten up the more muted brown and green tones, each of the three tasters offers a varied, intriguing end to our meal. The crispy yin yang banana is a banana mash hidden inside a fried pastry from white chocolate oozes. Smatterings of salt add to its general deliriuim. The sticky rice pumpkin chunks start off savoury but somehow end up sweet and the Kaya gel may look like a twist of wasabi paste but tastes nothing like it; it’s a tantalising sweet coconut gel with a strong flavour which doesn’t require more than the occasional dib or dab. 

According to Nanyang Blossom’s website, ‘When a dish is in full “blossom,” it becomes not only visually appealing but also irresistibly delicious’. Chef Patron Daren Liew and his friendly staff achieve this with flying colours and have made their restaurant a must-go to destination not only in Knightsbridge but the whole of London.