Part of the fabulous ‘Torel’ boutique chain, its newest edition is based in the centre of the Bolhão district (home to Portugal’s famous blue and white tiles). It used to be an old soap factory so expect the design to be inspired by this and to reflect its rich history. Compact and elegant but playful and joyous, Luffa, its bright and cheery restaurant, serves excellent breakfast and dinner and be sure to check out the Japanese rock garden exterior, where guests will find a pool, a Jacuzzi and a spa. The Luxury Editor’s Simon recently checked in, so read on to find out more.
With more to come in the next year, Torel Saboaria is the fourth and newest property in the luxury boutique chain’s Porto collection. The interior design of each is influenced by its specific building’s history, and if you didn’t know ‘saboaria’ means ‘soap factory’ in Portuguese, the first step into this historic space gives the game away. Part functional shop with an array of different designer soaps, part historical tribute with scales, weights and a cabinet full of soapy curiosities, it could equally serve as a reception, but that’s a few steps deeper inside. With a similar cabinet of historic curiosities shining from behind, not only is the reception Torel Saboaria’s physical centre, but it’s also its heartbeat, where the super-friendly staff converge, commingle and chat enthusiastically to guests as if they’re old friends. Leading outside to the spa and pool area, the space also segues into the restaurant and bar and practically props up the lift to the 28 rooms above.
The suite is a beguiling paradox of calm drama. All heavy blush walls with softer wooden flooring, tables and chairs, nature’s aesthetic dominates. The open plan space is compartmentalised with minimal fuss so that the king-size bed faces the street but away from the living area. Here, a large coffee table and sofa stretch opposite a pistachio bordered sink/cooker. In the closest corner fits a small round dining table on which a decanter full of port has the habit of magically refilling itself before sunset. Black and white checked floor tiles snazz up the bathroom, and the generously sized walk-in shower offers British Racing Green tiles for a more traditional elegance. Shampoo, conditioner and shower gel are all provided by Torel boutiques and, maybe one day it will be made on premises. Slashes and slabs of contemporary art unify the room. It might not be immediately apparent, but look closer, and one of the largest pieces isn’t made of vertical brickage but a bunch of soap bars.
Once you’ve spotted the soap bar art, you’ll notice it decorating corridors and the restaurant. Luffa has an altogether lighter, breezier aesthetic, so light in fact that the original limestone walls practically sparkle and remind one of a Flintstones new build. Tables shine with bright flecked marble whilst chair backs offer darker brown hues which match the wooden floor and, on one side, diners can sink into poolside cabana-type sofas and cushions. Continuing the soap factory inspiration, lights are covered in linen and wooden frames border clothes, which might have been historically washed in the nearby Douro River.
Inspired as much by the names as the ingredients, we kick off dinner with a couple of signature cocktails. ‘Greenz ‘r’ Good’ contains less vegetable goodness than the title implies, but this refreshing gin-based tipple made mainly of pear, apple and celery juice, still tastes like drinking a tasty salad. ‘Wild Card’ might well describe the restaurant’s entire ethos with its sense of familiarity but playful adventure. Part of the whisky sour family, scotch is infused with pomegranate, peach vinegar and cocoa for a refreshing and tangy experience.
The menu is sharing and our sommelier/waitress for the night, Rita, suggests three to four dishes before dessert. With the addition of sourdough and a fantastic Prawn rissol, however, the portions are suitably generous that three would more than suffice. Sitting somewhere between pitta bread and pizza, the choice of flatbread with one of three different toppings is a must. We eschew the apple and the chorizo for the Algarve rose prawns, which are of unusual, delicate and supple texture. Raw but not cooked, the prawns are actually cured with salt and sugar before lemon juice is added. A handful of coriander leaves decorates this moreish dish, in which chayote is also present for crunch and freshness.
The Tuna is cut into raw chunks and hidden from sight under a decoration of sweet kohlrabi ribbons. The dish swims in a fermented tomato and olive oil sauce peppered with sesame seed drops. Refreshing and light, it’s not as unexpected as the steak tartare, the presentation of which errs away from the more traditional French method. Here, egg yolk sits under the finely chopped steak, which is also cured for a noticeably sweet taste. Buckwheat proliferates for unexpected cereal puff crunchiness and slices of toasted homemade brioche curve around the plate to dip into this delicious mess of silkiness.
Rita advises expertly on the wine, the menu for which includes red, white, orange and green. The orange and green seem more exotic than the red and white and the green smoother than the orange. We opt for a Desvirttuado from Phulia Wines, a winery initiated by a couple of students in Coimbra who decided to try their hand at restoring abandoned vineyards in the Lima Valley. It works well with the Monkfish which again defies expectation, this time with a spicy yellow lemongrass soup, kimchi powder and green kefir lime extract. Even more surprises; underneath it all, pasta shells curl.
We share a Chocolate, banana merengue dessert which melds together for a gooey end of meal delight. Music throughout has been 60s/70s American funk and soul for an upbeat mixture of romantic yearning with Charles Bradley, especially, receiving more than his fair share of the rotation. In the mosaic tiled lift we notice a flyer for Luffa which perfectly sums up the experience as a mixture of ‘comfort, technique and a touch of adventure.’
Breakfast is more traditional but doesn’t suffer because of this. Music remains the same, as does waitress service. No buffet here; just a small but enticing menu. Both the Bacon, poached egg and hollandaise sauce croissant and the Smoked salmon labneh and pickles on toast offer light but wholesome ways to start the day and the yoghurt with chocolate granola and blueberries, with its generous chunks of dark chocolate, quickly becomes a favourite. Daylight bounces through the sprightly room for all-around positive vibes.
Inspired, surely, by Japanese rock gardens, two parts in the back of the hotel are covered with clean, small grey and white stones while shrubs and flowers prettify this calming oasis in an urban context. Surrounded by city architecture, the only building herein is the former soap factory warehouse, turned now, into a Spa which offers everything from Facials to Body Treatments to Signature Massages.
There’s also a Turkish Bath (steam room) in the spa and in the garden, a dainty fresh air pool and jacuzzi, both of which are hidden from cursory inspection by more greenery. In the last week of February, the pool is unheated and measures a cool 13 degrees, so it works perfectly as a plunge pool for the steam room before warming up again in the jacuzzi. The pool is open from 8 am to 8 pm, but if you ask the staff nicely, they might let you visit earlier or later. They also might bring you a glass of sparkling wine to make your special stay in this special hotel even more special.
