Is it a hotel? Or an apartment complex? In reality, it combines some of the best elements of both, but Village by Boa calls itself an Aparthotel. Situated on a side street in Porto’s central and historic Bolhão district (home to Portugal’s famous blue and white tiles), Village by Boa is a five-building complex which offers forty different-sized studio spaces. Although the majority of these are found within the main building, what used to be local working-class accommodation behind these buildings forms its conceptual heart.
Village by Boa has two entrances right next to each other. Both understated, one looks like a shop front and the other a more likely apartment block. The shop also works as a low-key reception but offers a bunch of carefully curated design-conscious products, all of which begs to find an appreciative home. Matcha chocolate, stuffed squid in ink, and blue gin rub exotic and pleasing shoulders with truffle polenta, brightly coloured china sardine plates and Japanese malt whiskey. It’s hard not to browse and be slightly hypnotised by all the pretty packaging and design.
Check-in is quick, and at the end we’re slipped six digits handwritten on paper. It’s hush-hush, turn your eye, spy stuff, it turns out, Village by Boa doesn’t do physical keys so this is your front door and apartment door code. Memorise if you can, take a photo as insurance, lose at your peril.
Renovation started in 2020, and its concept was to keep original features but give the premises a contemporary and natural twist. Certainly, the exposed concrete in the main building achieves this, reminding us less of brutalism and, especially with cord-woven chairs and what could be milkmaid stalls, more of a Nordic slickness. On the ground floor, a compact gym offers plenty of exercise options, including weights, rowing and cycling machines.
The apartment continues the natural theme and mixes warmer, brighter oatmeal tones in upholstery and bed linen with heavier, darker chocolate ones in the tables and chairs. The marble-clad bathroom stands immediately on the left upon entry. With two different types of shower heads to choose from, body wash, shampoo and conditioner come from the Danish Meraki brand. Down the corridor is the main living space. Also on the left, a wire glass divider blocks off the cosy bedroom, which has more than ample wardrobe hanging space and a queen-size bed with a generous handful of fluffy pillows.
Given Village by Boa lacks a restaurant, the kitchen is sizeable and slick; the grey and white marble worktop and backsplash look expensive and fit neatly amongst the array of pistachio cupboards. The kitchen comes with all things one would expect to find at home, including a (New York Times ‘no recipe recipe’) cookbook for those not wanting to seek inspiration from local cuisine and a pink popcorn maker should guests prefer to relax in front of the TV. If you’ve forgotten your popcorn, no worries, a welcome basket includes a packet along with local red wine, beer and dark chocolate. Two inverted lobster basket lampshades dominate the living room/kitchen space, which has its own balcony. This outdoor area is narrow but looks over some of Porto and the rest of the Boa village, which is where the Aparthotel’s history is most evident.
In the 19th century, Bairro do Silva was a working-class neighbourhood, and the houses were built in tight rows. The inhabitants formed microcosmic communities, lived as villagers and, pretty much, as family. With outsized pots, flourishes of ferns and fish scale tiling, this area now forms an idyllic escape from the city, with the renovation offering a sense of gentle introspection. If you’re not staying in this part of the Aparthotel, it’s well worth a casual visit, especially when the sun’s shining, and the city’s bustle gently fills out the background.
If you’ve booked breakfast with your bed, Simpli Coffee looks onto the village but isn’t accessible from it. To the front of the building’s immediate left, it’s a five-step walk. Its interior retains the naturalistic Nordic sensibility with magnolia-toned walls, a total of ten different chair types, some flora and salvaged wood-based art. Contemporary R&B plays from the Marshall amp radio and guests are invited to select breakfast by filling out a red form. Choose one each from a First Bite, a Morning Main and a Finishing Touch.
The Yoghurt parfait with fruit and granola was light and fresh as were the smashed peas on sourdough toast and the Chickpeas, tomato and spinach mix, also on sourdough. Coffee comes with its own cream based art, once in the shape of a happy snail, another a fern. Each cup is also delivered with what look like Top Trump cards, which explain the origins and name of the coffee bean used. Together, it all makes a solid basis for which to explore the surrounding historical area.
