If it’s hot in London, Home House’s walled garden is the place to be; no exhaust fumes, no lost tourists, no city workers letting off too much steam. Given its Marble Arch proximity, the garden offers a surprisingly bucolic atmosphere, lacking in grass, maybe, but surrounded by verdant leaves growing out of walls, rustling from hanging trees. The summer marquee may suggest private wedding celebrations but this permanent seasonal fixture offers protection from the vicissitudes of London’s weather as well as wide screen visuals for Wimbledon die-hards. Outside, wooden slatted tables and cream canopies are scattered around the marquee. We take such a table close to the historical semi-circular colonnade which celebrates the exit from and entrance to the main house. Gentle chit chat, low-pitched laughter, expensive perfumes float through the air.
I take a cooling Moet et Chandon but my friend is already faltering, overwhelmed by choice. A signature Sirocco or a never out of fashion Negroni? He asks our waitress who sticks to her Italian heritage and recommends the latter which has a hint of mango aftertaste in the bitters. Between the snacks and starters, big decisions have to be made and we ruminate long and hard over whether to take the Seafood Platter. We opt against but hedge our bets and share four Jersey Rock Oysters which are served on ice and samphire. Full with sea water, we further discuss whether to consume or ditch the sea water, go with the latter and instead smother the creamy mussels with mignonette, lemon and tabasco for a full accoutrement experience.
The Tuna Tartar is decorated with avocado blobs and sprouts of miniature greenery but it’s the potato galette which surprises the most, taking away from the dish’s simplistic purity but adding an unexpected crispiness and warmth. The tuna is cut into small cubes rather than minced and is geed up with tomato and cucumber chunks which add to the overall freshness and the lime enhanced tang. The stand out starter, however, has to be the Home House Mezze Selection. Served on a tiered cake type as if it was an afterthought from afternoon tea, each level offers a different kind of dip with thick pitta bread. The red pepper and tahini hummus is definitely more peppery than tahini and, thankfully, the edamame and wasabi is more edamame. The most curious is the whipped ricotta and apricot harissa; served with a dribble of olive oil and pepper flakes, the mixture of creamy cheese and subtle fruit is a sweet, fluffy delight.
We’re close to ordering a bottle of Rock Angel to accompany our mains. It is, one imagines, the slightly more bold sibling of Whispering Angel, and a semi-circular pink bar with a Magnum or Jeroboam stands opposite us for not so subliminal advertising. We opt for white in the end; Vina Costeira, Tambora Albarino from Galicia. It’s clean, refreshing, easy on the palate and works well with both our dishes. The Sea Bass initially provokes surprise, is turned upside down so that its silver and black skin shines. Underneath, it’s filleted and smattered with a creamy light green sauce so that the grilled flavour is accentuated with a mintiness. The Slow Roasted Poussin comes rather naked and with charred half lemon. The green chilli and yoghurt marinade may be subtle but the poussin is succulent throughout and the crunchy Rosemary Fries and Sauteed Spinach (with parmesan) work as quietly charismatic sides.
As we’re finishing, Alis, the genial sommelier from the main restaurant whips by, but we stop him for a fleeting chat. I reviewed the elegant style brasserie dining space a few times, a few years ago when Jeremy Brown had recently taken over as executive chef; both visits were nothing short of perfect. Easy come, easy go, Brown left as quickly as he arrived, shrouded in a cloud of hush-hush mystery. I haven’t been back since but Alis can’t hide his excitement as he teases a new era for the main restaurant in September.
There’s no Posh Twix in the garden, my favourite dessert from the main restaurant, but as we’re choosing our closing course, our waitress convinces us, somewhat indulgently, to try the Soft Serve Ice Cream as a kind of pre-dessert dessert. Both Lemon Meringue Pie and Strawberry Cheesecake tempt but we opt for the Matcha White Chocolate which comes with large chunks of broken cookies and a fine smattering of matcha powder. It’s soft and slushy and perfect for two but doesn’t stop us ordering more. My friend’s Manouri Cheese drips with honey and is decorated with cut figs.
He decides it looks like halloumi and tastes like halloumi, albeit less rubbery on the outside and fluffier on the inside. My Valrhona Chocolate Mousse is the closest I can find to the Posh Twix and is a sublime mixture of silkier, smoother mousse with a heavier, richer caramel sauce. The caramel seems to appear randomly but constantly in every other tantalising mouthful. No surprises for guessing it works admirably with my Espresso Martini; a refined and civilised way to end a refined and civilised evening.
Contact Details
Website: www.homehouse.co.uk
Address: 20 Portman Square, London W1H 6LW
