“Apuglian philosophy, Japanese technique” is the ethos at Chotto Chotto, a locally adored fusion restaurant at the heart of the southern Italian coastal town of Molfetta.
by Arabella Peterson and Lois Vega
Dine al fresco by the promenade, and soak in the sea breeze and the occasional toll of a church bell, drink in hand. Or head inside, where the vibrant, contemporary fit-out exudes a quality that sets the venue apart from the town’s centuries-old architecture.
This two-level fine diner is furnished with art-deco mirrors, brass light fixtures and plush velvet seating offset by exposed brick and tiled accent walls. The details are purposefully eclectic: the black and white striped floors nod to the iconic Shibuya crossing, and the kitsch artwork adorning the walls are inspired by Japanese woodblock prints. Lush greenery and clusters of dried pampas beautify the space.
“Chotto Chotto” means “a little of everything”, so you can expect a wide assortment of elegantly plated, bite-sized dishes. The à la carte menu is helmed by chef and restaurateur Richard de Sario, whose culinary technique was matured in Japan through a long-standing apprenticeship with sushi master Hiroto Akama.
De Sario suggests starting with raw oysters harvested from the Belon River in France, and lined up in prescribed order of degustation: each one has been aged in seawater for different periods, so as you progress through the selection, the taste and texture become richer and more nuanced. The oysters were a standout and some of the best I’ve ever had. Firm yet yielding in texture, these briny hors d’oeuvres were silken, cool and aqueous with a distinct but gentle aftertaste. It’s a lavish experience – one elevated by the sommelier’s recommended wine pairing.
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You might move on to familiar classics, like premium-grade sashimi and nigiri served on cold stone, fried cod fish balls or fresh sushi rolls. If you’re feeling more adventurous, try the slow-cooked cuttlefish with smoked eggplant; or the vegetarian gyoza with stracciatella, enriched with anchovy panko and togarashi spice. There’s also an array of flavourful tartare – take your pick from salmon, white fish, red shrimp or tuna. Like many, I’ve had my fair share of raw fish, so I was caught off guard by the epicurean voyage that this selection took me on. Crisp, sweet notes accentuated by umami flavour pairings left me feeling satiated but never overindulged.
The carpaccio options add another fresh dimension to the menu, delicate and bold in their individual piquancy. The white fish carpaccio ushers in a subtle heat with kizami wasabi, offset by a saline salicorn and tangy ponzu. The Pink Shrimp offering melded the mild sweetness of almond with a spiced trail of ginger-infused olive oil, creating a dish both earthy and aquatic.
It would be a crime not to try their mouth-watering take on ‘gunkan’, the battleship sushi roll. Here, de Sario takes the flavours up a notch by wrapping the ingredients in fish instead of the traditional nori seaweed. There are around a dozen options to choose from – but the red prawn, sea urchin and caviar wrapped in white fish is a standout.
At Chotto Chotto, the dining experience is not only delicious but steeped in their commitment to quality sourcing and traceability. Whatever you order, expect a card with a QR code with information on the day’s produce, including the harvest date, fishing area, production method and date of sale.
No seafood feast is complete without a carefully curated wine selection, and here, the list is small but mighty. In a region where homegrown wine typically takes centre stage, the addition of sparkling sake and Japanese spirits is a delightful surprise. Your desire for a local drop won’t go unfulfilled, however, and there’s a bottle for every taste. Local growers Petracavallo offer an unfiltered, organic white with a marked acidity supported by a good structure and fullness on the palate, while Attanasio takes you to the sweeter side of Puglia with the intense aroma of berries and melon and endnotes of candied fruit and almond.
With a menu that seamlessly weaves together the rich flavours of Puglia with the precision and artistry of Japanese cuisine, Chotto Chotto will transport you from the sun-kissed coasts of southern Italy to the bright and bustling night markets of Tokyo. Walk in or book a table for an experience that will have you talking about for weeks.
Contact Details
Website: www.chottochotto.com
Address: Lungomare M. Colonna, 22, 70056 Molfetta BA, Italy