Hotel España Ocean Drive, as the cliché goes, is a hidden gem. It’s a remarkable architectural wonder, a modernist landmark a minute from La Rambla that makes for one of Barcelona’s most characterful places to stay. This one-of-a-kind hotel is now part of the stylish Ibiza-born OD Hotels group, offering 82 remodelled rooms, a Martín Berasategui restaurant, a cocktail bar and a rooftop pool, all embraced by more than 165 years of history. It opened as the Fonda España in 1859 and was transformed at the start of the twentieth century by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, a father of Catalan modernism.
Catalonia, Barcelona, Ciutat Vella
Hotel España Ocean Drive
(4 stars)You feel the history the moment you arrive. The lobby opens onto the signature Dorita cocktail bar and then leads through striking art nouveau-inspired interiors from the studio of Lázaro Rosa-Violán, past the original marble staircase from 1859. The front desk is in a turn-of-the-century booth in the Arnau Hall, where the restored five-metre alabaster fireplace by Eusebi Arnau is the centrepiece. The space has been brought back to life beautifully and now works as a library, with distinctive books and a vinyl corner chosen to reflect the building, the period, and the city. Two old courtyards, the Pati de les Monges and the Pati Bon Dia i Bona Nit, have also been restored.
Location
Hotel España Ocean Drive is in the up and coming Raval neighbourhood, one minute to La Rambla and ideal for taking a tour of the neighbouring Gran Teatre del Liceu, or a short stroll to the iconic Boqueria market and the Gothic Quarter. The airport is about twenty minutes away by taxi.
Rooms & Suites
The 82 rooms are a bolder story. The interiors are by the studio of Lázaro Rosa-Violán, and they commit fully to colour. Each room takes a single scheme, either a deep blue, a saffron yellow or a red, and carries it through the walls, the carpet, the headboard, and the curtains. Ours was blue. Heavy fringed curtains, blue wallpaper in two patterns, and a blue and gold carpet. It is cohesive and full of character. It is also intense, so it might divide opinion. Some rooms look onto an interior courtyard or the building opposite. The ones ending in 6 and 7 on each floor face onto a side street and get far more light. Ask for one of those, or upgrade to a Deluxe with Terrace, the best option in the hotel.
The bed is dressed in clean white linen, and thankfully no throw and just one very small scatter cushions. It is a good decision. Clean, elegant.
The overall look is knowingly vintage, with fringed gold lampshades, a Marshall speaker, abstract mid-century art and a crystal ceiling light that is evocative of Murano glass. The bathroom is small but stylish, with blue tile, doors of ribbed vintage glass and organic shaped mirrors trimmed in gold.
Gastronomy
Dinner is at Fonda España, where Martín Berasategui holds the culinary direction with his twelve Michelin stars, while Chef Edu Rodas heads the kitchen. The cooking is uncomplicated and a touch rustic rather than showy, which suits the idea of a fonda. We began with a gilda, which was beautifully presented and perfectly balanced in texture and flavours. Other classics we tried included the russian salad, then the signature cod, which is an acquired taste. Berasategui’s name is certainly a draw, but the style is very respectful to Spanish traditional cuisine and local produce. The modernist dining room, first designed by Domènech i Montaner himself, is grand and brightly lit under its chandeliers.
Breakfast is excellent. It is served in the Sirens Lounge, beneath the modernist frescoes by Ramon Casas and a coffered skylight that fills the room with light. The space is spectacular. The buffet is well presented, and the team, Javier especially, are genuinely friendly. Good service ran right through the stay, from Tiberio at the front desk to Alfonso at the Dorita cocktail bar, who knew the city inside out.
OD Sky Bar
Up on the roof, the OD Sky Bar is open to the city and not only to guests. This is a signature feature of OD hotels and part of their OD ‘neighbormood’ approach to hospitality, where each hotel strives to be an active part of the destination’s culinary and cultural life.
There are shaded corners, ceiling fans, and comfortable seating, with signature cocktails worth ordering. I had the Japanese-inspired ‘Jardi Japones,’ and it was very good. The plunge pool is compact, with three single sunbeds screened by planting for a little privacy, so arrive early if you want one. During our visit, the public spaces were calmer than the OD name might suggest, a sign of a hotel that has only just opened and a city is still getting to know that this remarkable landmark is open to the public for cocktails, music, dining and socialising.
This is a remarkable hotel, immersing you in Barcelona’s architectural and cultural story, and for that alone, Hotel España Ocean Drive is worth booking now.
For more insights into Hotel España Ocean Drive, read The Luxury Editor interview, In Conversation with Eduard Soler, General Manager of Hotel España Ocean Drive.
