Stepping off the train in Lucerne feels like stepping into a scene from a movie. Mountains rise beyond the crystal-clear blue water, private boats fill the harbour, and grand hotels line the shore. Scanning the lakeside, there is one hotel that immediately catches the eye. Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern sits closer to the water than any other hotel in the city. With its distinctive roof domes and imposing Belle Époque façade, it is easy to see why the building has been protected as a cultural asset of national importance.
Canton of Lucerne, Lucerne
Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern
(5 stars)First opened in 1906, the palace was meticulously restored and transformed by Mandarin Oriental before reopening in 2022. This year marks its 120th anniversary, yet the hotel has lost none of the grandeur that made it one of Lucerne’s most prestigious addresses.
Undoubtedly, the lakeside setting is one of the hotel’s highlights. It became the backdrop to almost every part of our stay: through the towering windows of MOzern over breakfast, from the terrace with a glass of champagne as an afternoon DJ set played, and later, over dinner at Quai 10, whilst people-watching along the promenade.
The hotel’s location also makes it an ideal base for discovering the city. Lucerne’s famous Chapel Bridge and charming Old Town are within walking distance, and boats depart from nearby towards the mountains that frame the city. When travelling with a three-year-old, convenience matters, and the Palace allowed us to explore much of Lucerne without venturing too far.
Beyond its striking exterior, the Palace balances grandeur with contemporary design. The restoration honours the building’s Belle Époque identity, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about a stay here. Whilst high ceilings, a grand staircase and golden chandeliers provide a sense of occasion, the bedrooms and suites feel calm and modern.
As beautiful as the historic details are, travelling with young children quickly reveals whether a room has been designed to be lived in or simply admired. Ours achieved both. Practical elements such as angled multi-point sockets made charging several devices simple, and a walk-in dressing area provided enough space for us to get ready without getting in one another’s way. A Bose Bluetooth speaker, Dyson hair straighteners and a vanity mirror that lit up as it was approached were not just impressive additions, but features that were genuinely useful.
The Panoramic Rooftop Terrace Suites offer a completely different perspective on the city and are easily among the hotel’s most memorable spaces. Set over two floors, the rooms feature private terraces with 360-degree views of Lake Lucerne, the city and the Alps. Sitting above the rooftops, the mountains stretch across the horizon and Lake Lucerne shimmers below. At sunrise, there’s a stillness across the lake that makes time on the terrace feel entirely your own, despite being surrounded by the city.
Some of the most memorable moments of our stay, however, were found much closer to the ground, at the height of a three-year-old. Many hotels describe themselves as family-friendly; the difference lies in whether children are simply accommodated or genuinely considered. Here, my daughter found as much to enjoy as the adults.
Bernie, the hotel’s St. Bernard mascot, appeared throughout our stay. The character connects the Palace to its Swiss setting, but for my daughter, Bernie’s greatest contribution was a themed dressing gown that allowed her to spend bedtime pretending to be a dog. Bernie also became our guide for the hotel’s complimentary detective trail. With a booklet containing clues and facts about Lucerne, we set off to find different locations around the city. I have rarely seen my daughter so enthusiastic about reaching the next stop. Through her eyes, what could easily have been a boring sightseeing walk became an adventure, encouraging us to look more closely at the places we passed and giving her a reason to continue exploring.
The attention to families continued in our room. Nappies and a nappy bin had been provided, alongside miniature panda slippers. After returning from a day in the city, we found a storybook waiting on her bed, and, even more thoughtfully, its story included the places we had visited that day, including the hotel itself.
The storybook wasn’t the only thing that made our evenings memorable; dinner again brought us back to the lakefront. There are several dining options available in the hotel, including the opportunity to eat at two-Michelin starred Colonnade, which showcases French cuisine inspired by the natural surroundings.
My personal highlight was dinner at Quai 10, relaxing on the lakeside in the warm Swiss autumn air. Its Mediterranean-inspired menu offers enough variety to accommodate most diners, although my personal recommendation, if you’re in the mood for a Swiss classic, is the mountain rösti. Layered with Gruyère, caramelised onions, bacon and mushrooms, it brings the flavours of the mountains back to the lakeside. The Mandu dumplings, filled with warm, flavoursome ground beef, also deserve a special mention, as do the sweet potato fries. Glazed in sweet chilli butter, they were some of the best sweet potato fries I’ve tasted. Despite the magnificence of its surroundings, Quai 10 provided the perfect balance: dinner that felt suitably special for the setting yet remained relaxed throughout.
Its past gives the Palace its character, but it is every bit a place for the present. This is a hotel where you can admire century-old architectural details before retiring to a room with every modern comfort, drink champagne overlooking the lake while your child follows clues through the city and return from a mountain excursion to find the day’s adventures retold in a bedtime story.
Lucerne looked and felt like a film scene from the moment we arrived, and for a few days, the Palace allowed us to become part of the story. If our stay had closing credits, Bernie would have earned a special mention. The Palace, of course, would have had the starring role.
