Tigermilk, Spitalfields – Review

French chain sells more Mexican food to Londoners! After its successful Tottenham Court Road launch,  Tigermilk opened a second branch in Spitalfields Market a month or so ago. I was lucky enough to attend the opening party and Holy Moly, what a party it was! The Margaritas flowed like a river, the chips were crunchy and warm, the tacos hip and street-wise and the Mariachis strutted around, strumming up and down like they owned the place.

I return in mid-May to find the atmosphere less full on party, thankfully, but still busy and soundtracked by upbeat house and happy disco. As well as themed cocktails such as Azteca Grande and Oaxacan Negroni, six different Margaritas are on offer. Consisting of Mezcal Ojo de Dios and, perhaps more interestingly, a chipotle-infused tequila, the Mezcalita is also rimmed with a hardened chipotle flavouring. Smokey and rounded rather than incendiary and punchy, it’s slow but impressive. My friend takes the non-alcoholic Homemade Ice Tea, which consists of Earl Grey Tea and lime juice both of which are dominated by a spicy ginger. 

Messy and bursting with vivid colours, the starters look like they’ve just returned from Notting Hill Carnival without having had time to change. Los Tacos de Cochinita Pibil are the same moreish street food from the party and come with generous helpings of pickled onion and stringy, pulled pork. The best name surely goes to the Tuna Turner (wonder what Tina thinks!?). Simply the best? Well, the tostada is verifiably crunchy and there’s a whole lotta guac as well as more pink pickled onions which hide the chunks of fresh tuna.  The Salmon Tiradito is a dish neither my friend nor I have tried before and resembles a glamorous omelette.  I try to cut it in half, having forgotten it’s aji amarillo leche de tigre, literally translated as ‘yellow chilli tiger’s milk’.  The cutting is a failure but we share the three pieces of salmon which swim around the dish. We also do our best to scoop up the leche with forks as we start to analyse what becomes the most discussed dish of the evening. 

We keep the mains pure with no sides but a classic Mexico City Modelo beer. My Carnitas Quesadilla is crispy, cheesy and layered with pulled pork. The jalapeño dipping cream keeps things interesting and the four cut pieces make it easy to share with my friend who opted for the Carne Asada, also chopped into slices. The cured beef flank is a must for any hardcore carnivore; beautifully tender, gently charred on the outside and juicy within, we push the boat out and squeeze lime over it for extra sharpness.

If I hadn’t made it to the opening party, I might have missed it; the restaurant’s playful and extravagant interior design. We’re seated close to the entrance in what seems to be Tigermilk’s main space, a hacienda’s exterior which, sure, is fun enough. There are white-washed walls, hanging greenery, even an outdoor fountain but it’s the large proscenium arch above which hangs a (taco) bell which promises more than meets the eye. 

Step through the arch into a surprising and larger space which boasts open kitchen on the left and big bar in the middle. Hundreds of bottles glow blood orange and ruby red in an a visual spectacle which could, in another world, light up a sober museum. Hypnotically beautiful, it’s worth grabbing a beer or margarita just to bask in the oblong bar’s glorious glow. But that’s not all; there’s also a library. Maybe not as dramatic as the bar but smooth and carpeted and with a sense of some sophistication, books and chintzy paraphernalia fill the left wall as pelmets and floral curtains decorate the right.  It has the curious but genteel feel of Mexico via the home counties. 

If the Moussechacho sounds more exotic than what it is, chocolate mousse with hazelnuts, the Brioche Perdue sounds like it’s sneaked onto the menu when the staff were mixing it up at language class. Ironically, this French-toasted slippery, sweet, slobbery delight is Tigermilk’s show-stealer. My friend isn’t sure whether to say ‘Ay Caramba!’ Or ‘Sacre Dieu’ so opts for ‘Killer dish!’  and I can’t disagree. Two chunky slices of brioche absorb caramel and cream into every pore whilst candied hazelnuts provide enough texture to prevent flaccidness. Salt cuts through the sweetness beautifully to create lip-smacking tension between indulgence and more indulgence. Definitely go out on a high and don’t leave Tigermilk without trying.