We headed to the capital of Southern Spain to get the inside track on Balbuena y Huertas restaurant, the new culinary destination in Seville.
First impressions are of relaxed elegance. Balbuena y Huertas restaurant is in a landmark 1920s building, designed by the celebrated architect Ramón Balbuena y Huertas. It is a wonderful example of the golden era of this creative neighbourhood, with decorative ceramic panels adorning the exterior walls.
Inside contemporary design and luxury are in harmony with the reclaimed features of the period building including the stunning tiled floor. The space is welcoming, intimate, and stylish.
There is a cocktail bar area, attracting hotel guests as well as a dynamic after-work crowd, while the main dining area features a stunning glass wine cellar, an architectural feature that brings together the worlds of wine and gastronomy.
Richly veined marble tables are paired with velvet seating. There is also an additional seating area for groups or more intimate dining. The restaurant takes the entire ground floor of the Cavalta Boutique Hotel and is a vibrant space open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, after work, signature cocktails and dinner.
Chef José Luis Pastrana brings a youthful creativity to the restaurant, his skills honed in some the region’s most stylish restaurants. He champions local and seasonal menus. Just as the building is iconic of Triana, so is the restaurant, offering accessibly priced gastronomy that focuses on produce from Andalucia, from the foraged ingredients, organic vegetables, game, locally sourced meat, seafood, and fish from both the Atlantic and Mediterranean, as well as rice dishes.
Cavalta Boutique Hotel is the first 5-star Gran Lujo hotel to open in Triana, the district of Seville that has a renowned history in ceramics, and azulejos decorative tiles, as well as producing some of Spain’s most famous toreros bullfighters.
Balbuena y Huertas is the signature restaurant of this new luxe boutique bolthole, and there will be more on the hotel later.
You can read The Luxury Editor profile review of Cavalta Boutique Hotel Seville here.
Seville is without doubt one of the most desirable destinations in Spain. It embodies the epitome of all that makes this country so remarkable, from the vibrancy of flamenco, the warm climate, the friendly people to the alluring history of the Moors. Yet all that can make the city a little crowded, so a visit to Triana is a treat.
It is a lot less touristy. Of course, over the years the principal street has become more commercial, but away from the main thoroughfare the area resonates with authentic Andalucian energy and vitality. So, step off Calle San Jacinto, and discover neighbourhood bars, and fascinating ceramic workshops. The streets are lined with nondescript, normal domestic apartment blocks where people actually live. You are more likely to brush shoulders with residents that tourists here, and for me that makes the visit all the more interesting.
Lunch or dinner at Balbuena y Huertas will surely be a highlight of your time in Triana. There is a selection of tasting menus to choose from, and they are fairly priced. Here you and start with multiple courses for 38 euro which might be the price of just one plate elsewhere in Seville.
Service is polished and natural, you feel welcome and at ease. Menus promise ‘Cocina regionalista sevillana’ – a focus on Andalucian gourmet fare. We chose the ‘Pureza’ tasting menu at 45€ pp.
The dishes included
– Ensaladilla ruso with lobster or tuna tartare with truffle.
– Foie on an Ines Rosales base with Moroccan lemon curd
– Tempura king prawn and citrus pumpkin cream
– Rice with duck and foie gras
– Venison loin, with cheese and lavender
– Puff pastry with enoki mushrooms, sweet chestnut purée and mandarin ice cream
All the details are there, from signature cocktails, like the ‘Triana Sunset’ with rum and watermelon, to the artisan bread, butter, and olive oil on the table as we begin.
Plates are beautifully presented and paired with wines from Andalucia and beyond. It’s a deliciously relaxing experience and all the more meaningful for being in Triana.
Address: Balbuena y Huertas, San Jacinto, 89, Triana, 41010 Seville